If you really want the reg. to look true and correct, covers are make for those who restore to concourse correctness. Many Mustangs are judged for points etc. and the 65 was the first year for the alternator.  These covers are really nice reproductions available from NPD and will enhance any Ford engine compartment.  I put the 65 cover version on my 64 truck and no one has called me on the fact that it should have a generator. 


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Surprising that the US Made One was defective. I unplugged it and plugged in the Napa one and the Alt. worked as expected. I bought the Delco one because it looked like the One I took off. I was going to paint the Cover Black so it looked original.

  

Greetings:  The AC Delco was defective, hmmmm.    Thanks for the information on the Napa unit and the e-bay listings.


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The One that was Defective was an AC Delco F672. Made in USA. I was lucky to get an Electronic Solid State at the local NAPA who happened to have One on the Shelf. Napa VR440SB. The genuine  Ford Ones You were looking for are GR540B. There's about 6-7 on Ebay that are real Motorcraft and several Imitation Ones.

  

Oldcarmark, I am curious as to what regulator you purchased, what brand is on the box/device, part number and is it an electronic or electro-mechanical?  It was interesting to see what looked like a fairly new but mechanical reg. in the photo you added to this thread.   I didn't think  mech. regulators were being made any longer, not even in China. The last time I needed a reg. for the Ford G1 alternator I searched the internet for the latest N.O.S. electronic reg. by Motorcraft.  I found only a few out there but it appears the last of the "old school" quality (Ford/Motorcraft) electronic regulators are getting very hard to find.  Thanks, JEFF.....................


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Nice work, perfect. Sounds like you have the wiring correct already but the wiring may need to be straightened out with absolute rock solid connections.  I might add, there are numerous alternator harnesses available from sources as NPD for the 65 and up mustangs that will match very close to what we need and look factory correct. Now that you know what all the connection requirements are, you should be able to select one that will work for you with little modification. That's what I did to finalize the alternator install in my 64 F100. And whats more, you will have a better, more stable system with this fantastic 3 wire alternator.  Now, not to steer this thread, I may seek your advice regarding posting pics on this site.  Glad to hear the thing makes electricity.............JEFF


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Fixed it. Bought another Electronic  Regulator and solved the Problem. Light is off and charging at around 13.5-14.5 .All that  aggravation caused by a defective Regulator. Thanks for all the Help. I still needed your input to get the Wiring done correctly.

  

Greetings:  I was hesitating to go to the full field test until a few more things were checked. Since you did this, it looks like the alternator is probably good. Now, you stated there was .3 volts on the "I" terminal to ground with the light on.  In some cases, it takes more than just the current through the bulb to kick start an alternator. Often, for a mechanical reg. a 15ohm resistor is shunted across the bulb. You may try simply shorting the bulb, that is, place a shunt across the bulb.  This should not harm anything.  The field relay is the one with an upper and lower contact. With no power on the reg., the spring holds the armature against the upper contact which is the full field position and as voltage builds up and a bit over 13.8 volts, it should begin to vibrate thus limiting the current to the field thus regulating the voltage. The other relay it the field relay and will pick up as voltage builds in the stator.  So at this point, try a shunt across the bulb.



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I just did a Test I read online. Disconnected plug from Regulator. Started Car. Jumped the Connection between "A" and "F" and it started charging. Apparently this indicates a Regulator Problem (Defective). Do You concur with that?

  

I have 12.4  Battery Voltage. 12.4 at "A" Terminal on Regulator. With Key on not running I have very minimal Voltage .31 between F and - on Battery and the same between "I" and - on Battery. The Light is on. With Light off 0 at both Terminals. You can email Me at oldcarmark@hotmail.com if You want to go offline at this Point. Really appreciate your help.I had the cover off the Reg. to check voltage. The "Points" between the "I" Terminal and the "A" Terminal were open as well as the "F" Points. When I start the Car the "I" Points were still open but the "F" appeared to close. Does this help at all?