Well I am close to being done with the restoration.  Now I have a problem.  Has anyone put a unisteer in their 55 tbird?  I swore I cut the tube correctly but I am short about 3/4 of an inch from where I need to be so I can properly mount the steering wheel.  Seems I didn't cut the column enough????  You have to rivet the horn switch onto your column and right now I have about an inch from the top rivet to where the column flairs.  If I cut enough off the bottom of the column to make the wheel fit, then the top of the switch plate will be snug against where the column flairs.  Just want to see if anyone can advice me on this.  No way this works without cutting more of the column only other possibility is they gave me the wrong steering shaft in the kit,

Rex

The measurements they give are for a 56-7 column I think.  It will work, I had to cut mine two or three times and drill a different hole for the horn contact.  I have to head out now, will write a better response tomorrow.

Don

previous post continued,
To get the correct steering column length, I inserted the steering shaft until the upper bearing was in place, making sure the shaft extended properly for steering wheel placement. Then working backward from the bottom, I measured how much of the column I would have to cut off for proper shaft length from the lower bearing, including room for the thrust washer. I cut a little conservatively the first time, but then double checking everything, the final cut was perfect. So including the cut at their recommended length, I ended up cutting it three times. The supplied u-joints and double-d bar will work with some encouragement.
I also drilled a hole using their measurements for the horn connection which didn't work.  Studying it I decided it needed to be mounted on the larger diameter area of the column and drilled accordingly.  The contact ring is barely a press mount on the column and was easily moved ti line up with the new hole, though I did unsolder the wire to shorten it to the correct length, then reattach. I also only used a pop rivet on the long side of the brush mount and a hose clamp on the short end to avoid the rivet coming into contact with the ring.
Other thoughts:  
The hoses while they appeared to be finished, weren't and the ends need to be secured onto the hoses to prevent leaks or worse, a good time to alter the length for a cleaner look. A you-tube video helped me there.
 I have AC, so the steering pump would have been another thing on what I thought was an overloaded belt. I already had a double crank pulley, so I had a spacer made to line up the steering pulley with the forward crank pulley.  I was having a driveshaft made at the time, so the shop was able to cut me a 3 inch diameter spacer about 3/4 inch long from heavy-duty driveshaft tubing.  The 3 inch is just a little oversize which allowed me to cut a pair of grooves that the pump mounting bolts could clear and help hold the spacer in place.
The supplied hose clamp for the lower mount wouldn't clamp tightly enough and I had to reattach repeatedly until I shimmed it with a piece of leather.  I didn't have much luck finding a heavy duty clamp the correct size. 
The pump has been modified, possibly to clear the suspension.  They apparently removed the tank to do this and didn't reattach it correctly for a good seal. Mine leaked and was noisy and eventually had to be replaced.  I used an off the shelf unmodified pump to replace it with no problems.
A couple of years after installing the system, the horn began to sound for no apparent reason. After tracing the problem to the steering column and a couple of disassemblies later, I was able to determine that the tension spring for the steering ring contact would slip out from the insulating sleeve and ground the horn.  A homemade plastic shim pushing the spring into the sleeve a little further solved the problem.  
After all this and four years of use, I'm happy with the system and it makes the car much more comfortable to drive.  The only other problem is my inattentiveness, since the car was built for slow steering and large inputs to make even a mild turn that's what the turn signal cancellation is set for. I'm often another old man driving an old car turning left for miles.  Signals cancel just fine on sharper turns.  I'm pretty sure I know haw to cure this, just not sure I have the skills/tools.

I hope some of this helps,
Don