Talked to Broader Performance about increasing stall speed.. he can machine the stator to get a few hundred more rpm.. Easy operation and real reasonable around 60 bucks

Glad to see that "The Hoosier Hurricane" is back!


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Dennis:
My internet place sold out to another outfit about a year ago.  I just happened to try this site a few weeks ago and it worked.  I thank you and your son for attempting to help me to no avail.  Good to be back.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

the air cooled converters ar easy to distant,just a ring of bolts. find a converter rebuilder they should be able to increase the stall. also your linkage is critical,2 much throttle pressure  increases all pressures  which make for better shifts,it is fine line,if you have a older motors 
repair manual they have good inst on enisial setup.also you need the original bracket and linkage to have it work

John, did you get a new computer or a new internet provider? Welcome back.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

John that is exactly the type of info I was fishing for.. I have one of the later flex plates.. All I need is about another 500 rpm of stall speed to make the car a little more friendly to drive in traffic..

Royce:
The problem with using a later converter is the starter ring gear.  On pre-58 Fordos the ring gear is on the converter front half.  Later COM converters will fit the front pump and input splines (provided your present one is 29 spline, not 17), but will have no ring gear.  You will need a '58 or later flex plate, which are getting difficult to find.  A converter rebuilder should like working on yours, they don't even have to cut it open, just take out the bolts.  They may not be able to help the stall speed much, because most stall converters are smaller diameter than the original.  Pegleg has worked with a rebuilder in his area that fixed him up with good FMX/Y-Block mongrel.
John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Remember, as the stall speed is increased the temperature of the trans fluid will be raised so if cooling can`t be increased then as A/T fluid rises above 220/230 degrees F the fluid will break down sooner and must be replaced more often. Pete

There is a slightly warmer cam in it.. Factory idle rpm specs do not apply.. Cam pulls 16 inches of vacuum, but it takes about 850 rpm idle to prevent stalling when you drop it in gear. In my way of thinking it needs a looser converter

The original Idle Specs for Automatics was 475 RPM in "Drive".