Just checked, My new instrument cluster has a Volt gauge. So that parts ok. Thanks, Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

P.S.   Useing a voltmeter  instead of aa amp gauge ...........Sam

56 victoria

Hello Chuck ,   did about the same thing with my 56 as you are working on now...I used an ez-wire harness , this did away with the voltage regulator . and horn relay under the hood....used a gm one wire alternator,  did away with the starter solenold on the fender well ,  as the new starter motor has one on it .....used  a pertronix with a 57 dist., wired as per instructions....took the neutral safty switch apart and changed it so car will start only in park.......found a linkage set up that matched the trans. and adapted to fit the yblock  ...with out looking at  how i ran the wires , will have to look,  been working on a few cars since then....the car runs good and not had any problems ,   except had to change the gear ratio in the rear........made a big diffrence with the overdrive............Good Luck...........Sam

56 victoria

Chuck,



For safety reasons I would recommend not using an AMP gauge and instead using a voltmeter. If you use an AMP gauge you are running a lot of amps under your dash. I know my alternator puts out ~100 amps.










Johnson Rod



Southern California

Does someone have, or can they draw, a schematic for the whole deal? I'm think I would like to eliminate both the old solenoid and the external regulator and the old regulator wiring harness (if possible). And I have an amp guage to hook up. I understand running the wire from the alternator bat terminal to the solenoid bat terminal. I suspect the left side push on wire from the old solenoid goes to the start position on the new starter solenoid. I have no idea what to do with the right side wire from the old solenoid.

Will the amp gauge wires hook one end to the alternator and the other end to the bat terminal on the starter? If there is a direct connection between them will the amp meter still function? I would also like the charging light to function but I could live without it.

I'm sure I can figure out the neutral saftey switch with an Ohm meter.

HELP! Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Chuck:

If you still have the stock ignition switch in your '56, you'll still need that wire.  The stock switch provides no power to the coil when it is in the "start" position.  Ever notice how your radio and heater shut off when you try to start the engine?  No power for accessories either in "start".

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks Tero. I'll probably just eliminate the wire. I don't have the ballast resistor anymore. Will check out the Pertronics site. I have lost my instructions. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Chuck,



The other wire is for bypassing coils ballast resistor on the starting moment to feed 12 volts direct to coil so You won,t like to put it to battery post. If Your using electronic ignition You might not need it, but it helps. Some starters with solenoids has place to that wire also, some don´t.

For the pertronics, You find installation manual here: http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/ignitor12vneg.pdf . Shortly, black wire to coils negative side and red wire to coils positive side where is 12 volts (before ballast resistor).




Tero from Nurmijarvi, Finland

56 Country Sedan, 61 F-100, 61 F-600, 55 F-620, 52 Mercury

http://www.dlc.fi/~teros

http://www.y-block.info

http://www.hollowheads.net

http://www.fordnationals.net

Finally got around to installing the AOD behind my engine. Question is, since the solenoid is on the starter I figure the battery cable goes direct to the lug on the starter solenoid. The start wire would go on the push on connector on the solenoid. It's the last wire I'm not sure about. The left side push on connector on the old solenoid. Assuming it's hot direct from the battery cable would it just connect to the same place as the battery cable? Then I'm also guessing that the two wires for the amp meter would go, one to the bat terminal on the alternator and the other to the solenoid battery terminal.  Also which wires on the AOD come from the Neutral safety switch? I'll need to wire them in too.

Hope this isn't too confusing to follow.

Also, I'm putting on a 1 wire alternator That came off a marine application. When I removed the back cover (spark arrestor?) I noticed the two push on terminals were on the alternator but not used. Do I just leave them empty or ??

By the way I did ground hop the new motor tonight. Had to reset the carb floats and play with this distributors a while. It really sounds crisp and I think it will run good for what it is. I ran it without the radiator off and on for 15-20 minutes. It built a fair amount of heat but I didn't run it for any long periods. Oil pressure is 80lbs at idle and fuel pressure was around 8. I'll have to adjust that down a bit.

Question is did it build enough heat to re-torque the head bolts?

I finally installed a spare Mallory single point boat distributor just to get it running. My normal distributor is a Mallory Electronic unit that is wired to a MSD 6BTM box. I wasn't sure how to get it working without taking the harness out of the car. I then tried a Pertronix converted distributor I carry as a back up. Couldn't get a spark out of it. Though I wasn't real sure where the two wires were supposed to go. I would assume(danger Will Robinson) That the red went to the negative side of the coil and the black to ground. But I couldn't get any fire out of it. When in doubt points are pretty simple!

Anyway I'm almost on the road again. My Grandson is coming over Monday to help me hang the engine in the car. Then I'll have to figure out the transmission mount and get the drive shaft set up. I bought a universal shifter rod setup from Lokar that is supposed to have enough adjustment to get everything set right. We'll see! I'm also using the Lokar TV cable setup that came with the tranny. Any tricks to setting the cable up without using a pressure gauge?

Any help appreciated. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire