ok, thanks! I am actually working on this right now. Reread the NHRA rules and understand what I need to do.

I am going to place the push-pull so it will exit through the back-up light and can be removed at any time for primary street use.



NHRA rules state I CAN have the optima bat. open, I just have to have a bulkhead between the drivers cockpit and the battery. So, I am fabbing up an aluminum bulkhead today. the easy part.



And I may get a relay setup for a trunk mounted solonoid which takes care of alternator and fuel pump shut off as well from M.A.D. electronics IF I can ever get him on the phone!?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

The kill switch needs to be accessible to someone outside of the car in case of an emergency. On our car, we have sheet metal plates over the holes for the factory exhaust. We mounted the switch in the center of one of these. David C.

OK, so if I get both of these I should be covered? I don't want to spend the cash on the "BIG" switch BUT If I did I could drill a hole thru the backUp lens and housing - making it less obtrusive? AND still workable without drilling thru the body-right? Probably overthinking it!-thats the way I do things!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

If you cut off the battery connection - but the alternator is still turning and making current - and it is connected on the ignition side of the "e-stop" disconnect - will the engine die? Probably not. That is the intent of the external kill switch  - for safety or rescue persons to instantly shut down the engine. I you are on fire on the starting line - they will shut you off like right now....

A one wire alternator easily makes current enough to run the engine - I think the disconnect needs to take it out too. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

This might help, in my Model A I had the battery mounted underneath the car near the rear. I made a bracket behind my fold down licence plate for the kill switch so no one would know it was there. I race the car at several NHRA santioned events and once I showed them where the kill switch was, it passed tech no problem.

As for the connection, I too just ran the negative side to the frame beside the battery, on the positive side I ran that back to the kill switch,and then up front to the solenoid. I also used #1 gauge welding cable from the battery to the solenoid to prevent voltage drop.

Word of advice though, make sure you have a good ground strap from your engine to your frame, at one point I had a poor connection and the solenoid would not kick. It took me a while before I realized my engine ground strap had come loose!!!

Rob   

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Thanks for the input Steve and Eddie. Looks like I'll have to get a box afterall AND the E switch as you called it. I'll need more advice on the connection back to the alternator though. don't quite get that?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Al -

I think the tech insp. guys will insist that the alternator connection is also terminated by the "E-stop" switch. You would need to run your "one wire" connection back to the battery - then put the "e-stop" between the battery and solenoid. Then use the solenoid's "battery" post as the main feed for the car.

Even though the Optima is a no-spill  "gell cell" style of battery - it will still "off gas" hydrogen in certain circumstances (charging). Might open the deck lid explosively in the wrong circumstances. I think it needs a vented space or vented box.

Mounting the "e-stop" switch on a bracket on the back bumper/license plate holder something like that might work out....

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Hey Al.  I put my bat in the trunk, center of ledge.  Ran welding cable to the front sol. Ground to existing hole on frame in rear. Clean and sand frame for good contact.  Ran cable front frame to engine block in front, again sanded and cleaned connection. also ran ground strap from engine block to body.  Hope this helps    God Bless

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

on the kill switch- does it have to exit on the back of the car-really hate to drill a hole somewhere. How about a bracket on the license plate or under the bumper?

Any pics of your 55 racer you want to show?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Alan- It would be good to have a tray in case the battery ever developes a leak or you change battery type. If you drag race it, the tech people may require an external "kill switch" which also comes in handy to de-energize the entire electrical system during storage or repair. I don't see why you would need to put the solenoid in the trunk- on our 1955 T-Bird racer we just ran the + wire from the trunk mounted battery to the stock solenoid. Everything else remained the same. The alternator won't care where the battery is. Be sure to use an oversize wire to compensate for voltage drop due to the long run. You can ground the negative terminal near the battery.