As for WCFB tuning. I found both the 53 Cadillac and the 53 Oldsmobile ones I used worked perfect as built. I have no Idea from the other cars that used them.Their compression ratios were very close to the Ford and really that's what matters the most. I tried one size smaller jet in the Cadillac one and  my 56 292 did not run as good and I went back. Metering rods are harder to come by and they would be good for very minor adjustments.

 Ford did not run progressive which I do. I idle on both carbs but run 99% of the time only on the rear. I use a Edelbrock 257. I need to push the foot feed to the floor when starting the engine after a week of sitting to squirt both in front and back. At no other time do i even touch the foot feed to start. There is no soot in my exhaust pipes, I blame this on the gasoline today.  

You need to remember that just because you have 1, 2, 3, or 4 carbs if the air fuel mixture is correct for each on as a single it will work on your engine and you can open it up IF the engine can take the air. I know you guys don't like comparing our engines to scrubbies but think of the 245 HP Corvette. Its's a STOCK 4 barrel engine of 220 HP with dual quads that's why I felt my 292 Ford would be just fine with dual stock WCFB's and I was right...maybe just lucky but right. good luck..

.I guarentee you nothing sounds better than opening up dual quads on a freeway at about 60 mph and seeing 90-100 mph come up on the speedo before you can even think about it.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Charlie,
I should have said that as far as the engine goes, when I asked him (previous owner) about the cam he said everything with the engine rebuild was stock.

I learned through this site and while trying to find a kit for the Carter WCFB's that lesson because he said the dual quads were off of a 57 T-Bird.
Well, they might have been taken off a 57 T-Bird but certainly were not stock OEM. I wish they were since I could have them calibrated to spec.

Thanks again,

Joe D (The Frig)

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

If he used the word believe, then you don't really have any idea what is going on.  Belief is a lot different than knowledge.  It doesn't necessarily mean anything bad but basically anything said by him should be discarded until evidence supports it.  The 2-4s absolutely is not stock in 1960 on any Y-Block.  So there goes his everything is stock claim.

You don't need to remove the valley pan.  I would not advise that unless you have a problem with it or you do need a different one for the 2-4 intake.  Compare it to kultulz picture or just post a picture of it installed.  The difference will be obvious.


Lawrenceville, GA

Kultutz,

I'm going to remove the carbs and manifold this weekend and prep for the stock manifold and single carb which I should have next week.
I will remove the valley cover and send pictures. The guy who did the rebuild on the truck said everything was stock when I asked him about the cam. He also said that he believed it was the original 292 Y-Block in the truck. !960.

My e mail address is jderita@comcast.net

Thanks again!

Joe D

Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

I do not understand what you are saying about the crankcase vent and special valley pan? The truck ran fine for 2 years. I just hooked up a hose to the fitting to route oil mist away from the back of the engine.

Ok, let me see if I can explain this correctly -

The 1957 8V intake had an increased plenum area for better breathing. The carb pad casting couldn't be raised as it also had to fit under the hood of the 57 BIRD. So it was cast with a deeper plenum. A special valley cover with relief was used to allow for the increased depth. Without it, the manifold plenum bottom would overheat damaging the bottom side of the intake.



Does yours have this valley pan? Also, the 1957 E-CODE used a road draft tube off the rear of the pan.

____________________________

Anyone out there know someone who can calibrate these Carter WCFB's?

Well, actually you can as it needs to be done and then run to make sure everything is correct.

Is your E-MAIL address shown here?

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Thanks Y Blockers!! We will correct this issue soon! A friend of mine told me when I first bought this old hot rod and was having trouble with the points, to "remember it's all about the journey".

Kultulz
The oil fill cap is vented and I put a sock around the vent holes to catch the oil mist.

Yesterday I ordered a stock cast iron manifold (single 4 BBL) and a friend at work is giving me a Edel carburetor. I really believe it's the throttle plates not closing all the way and creating a lean condition (not flooding). This  explains why the idle screws are all the way backed out and it idles at 1000 RPM. Engine runs strong and always starts back up and recovers.

We will know for sure if its the carbs once I test drive with the single carb set up.

Anyone out there know someone who can calibrate these Carter WCFB's?

Thanks,
Joe D (The Frig)




Joe D (The Frig)
1960 F-100 - 292 Y-Block
Philly Burbs

Kultulz,

The timing is 28 BTDC with vac adv hooked up to rear carb port.
Intake shows a steady 14"HG

I tried stock fuel pump (6 pounds) this weekend and engine still stalled.

I do not understand what you are saying about the crankcase vent and special valley pan? The truck ran fine for 2 years. I just hooked up a hose to the fitting to route oil mist away from the back of the engine.

I am a$$-u-me(ing) it is showing 28 BTDC (with vacuum signal included) as a result of heightened curb speed idle and as a result supplying a PORTED VACUUM SIGNAL to the DIST.

The HIGH CURB IDLE may be as a result of the secondary throttle blades not being adjusted correctly. I would not send them back off as the re-builder has no clue as he did not check this adjustment on re-kitting.

Your oil fill cap. Is it vented or closed to the atmosphere?

Heightened fuel pressure may cause an enriched fuel mixture. There is no FORD data that I know of other than LINC-MERC regarding CARTER WCFB. You may have to research scrub 283 Dual Carters of the period for recommended fuel pressure. 

____________________________

A high idle that cannot seem to be solved is not running fine.  There is something wrong which is causing that.  The only way it can idle too high is by getting too much air.  There is either a vacuum leak or the throttle plates are not closing for some reason.  


Lawrenceville, GA

Joe D,
I realize that wasn't your engine, Page 10 has a picture of what I thought was your engine and the chokes look like they're not plugged. I thought the image on page 5 would show that others saw fit to block the unused choke(s) off. I guess the dark shadows fooled me. I've read teachings that claim a lean mixture burns slow which makes the engine need more advance than usual. My thoughts are the low 14" vacuum reading is too low to pull enough fuel through the idle circuits. I asked about a compression reading to see if it is normal, if it isn't your timing chain may have jumped time or your engine may just be tired. These thoughts are depending on that there are no vacuum leaks and your carbs are perfect. If you have good compression I would go forward with trying a different carb and manifold.