GOOGLE - canister coil mounting brackets - and you will find all kinds of options.

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Thanks!

DryLakesRacer Posted - http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic110355-2.aspx

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I saw the power valve problem on Charlie's videos.  Anyone who wants to mess with these carbs should view them.  I think there are five in all.  I found out yesterday that Charlie produces new Holley 94s. He has a number of options and finish choices.  I am thinking about driving down to see what he has next week. Might be better than messing with three 60 plus year old carbs?

My distributor is a stock 1957 Ford distributor with a Pertronics unit.  The centrifugal advance has been curved and I don't use vacuum advance.  My little 292 runs pretty good for what it is.  The TBird is a fairly light car and the O/D works.  I don't know the exact rear gear ratio, but it's pretty low.

My distributor uses only centrifugal advance, so I will not be using the vacuum ports.

What type of DIST are you using?

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Note what Paul said. The modern valves look almost identical and screw right in. And leak. I learned that working on that kind of tri power with 94’s the hard way.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

The power valves from Holley are a poor fit for the early carbs (may not seal good).  I believe Charlie has power valves that are modified to fit the early carbs.  You might want to discuss this with him.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Good news.  I was able to get the iron heater hose connector out of the manifold without screwing up the manifold. I disassembled the primary carb and it looks like someone put a kit in them recently.  As I suspected the throttle plate screws are buggered up and the shafts are worn.  The screws holding the top on the carb are from a hardware store and are too long.  The manifold is fine.  The linkage is junk.  My list for Charlie is growing.

The next step is to put a vacuum gauge on my engine to check the idle vacuum so I can install the right power valve.   I ordered an intake manifold gasket set.  Hood clearance check after that.

The center carb is the bigger of the three with a 1 1/16 venture.  My distributor uses only centrifugal advance, so I will not be using the vacuum ports. A former owner installed a threaded iron heater hose fitting into the 573.  It's frozen.  I've been down this road before.  To keep from destroying a vintage manifold, I'll be working with my Dremel tool.  I will be disassembling the carbs to see what they need.  I'm sure I will be replacing all three bases.

I spoke with Charlie on the phone yesterday.  He is a busy guy and doesn't have a lot of  time to bench race.  He gave me good advice and answered my questions. He told me to make a list of what I need and call him back. I can tell he doesn't have time for cheap rebuilds.  I see this as a good thing.  I know I'm going to put money into this setup if I want it right.

As far as the hood clearance issue goes, I think the only way to be sure is to remove the hood scoop chrome trim and mount the tri carbs and manifold. I believe I can see the clearance through the hole.  I'm thinking about building a three hole aluminum base and using foam to seal it to the hood like 60s Ram Air.

The center carb ECG has a SPARK CONTROL VALVE for a LOM DIST.

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