Mike,

   Again, you don't HAVE to use the residuals with drums, but it won't hurt. If you do use them make sure you use good, preferably new, return springs on the shoes. The valves will keep a small amount of pressure in the system at all times. This prevents air from entering the lines, and keeps the system ready to stop without pumping. Your choice.  Nobody here will try to tell you how to build your vehicle, all we can do is relate our own experience.

   I don't run them, but I keep my drum brakes adjusted.  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Chuck, You are right , it is the best site on the net for our Y-blocks.  I saw this post & am doing the same conversion &  thought that I would see more on it, as I also called the company that sells them to no avail------ so I get discouraged--- if it were a 54 Chev I am sure I wouldn't have a problem.    Keep up the good work !!!       Mike

     

Hey I agree with Mooney, Have had all kinds of problems answered,  whether engine- brakes- seats-- body work or what have you,  Always good answers and in language I can understand!!!    Many thanks to all   God Bless

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Marvsmerc,

What exactly do you mean? Sure there is a LOT of performance stuff here but I've rarely seen ANY question go unanswered (or at least attempted). We have guys on here that have worked on every part of our beloved Y-Block powered cars and trucks and usually get the answer we need. Of course, sometimes the right person may not read the topic but thats the web! This is absolutely the best site for any information on Y-Blocks and their vehicles! Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Hey Ron,  Sounds like you do have the same unit. Good luck with it. Does'nt seem like much expertise in this area for advice.  It's the SOSO on here- Cam -Power-etc?????   Wish there was more on the common problems with our Y-block powered cars.    Mike

     

Thanks for the information. My unit will be here tomorrow and I will check it out. It sounds like mine is like yours. Mine is a unit built by MBM Brakes in Asheville, NC. The distributor I bought it from is in New Mexico.

I already had a dual M/C, so my front lines are split. I went ahead and purchased (2) 10# Residual Valves and am going to install them in the lines. I need to replace the back line anyway as it is the original one piece from the factory.

I replaced the brake light switch with a manual switch off the pedal under the dash. I did this because I installed Rapid Fire LED tail/brake lites a couple of months ago. Now....All I do is just touch the pedal without applying the brakes and the brake lights flash rapidly to warn the folks behind that I am slowing down or stopping.  Works great!!!!!

Keep crusin...............Ron

Still Livin In The 50's!!!  '55 Tudor Customline with a 312ci Merc/4-Speed/Granada Rear.

I am in the process of installing a power booster conversion myself.  Mine is from Pirate Jack from N.C..    It is set up so the pushrod is inside the firewall bracket on a pivot point, with a flat rod from that thru the firewall to the brake pedal.. I cut the bolt to the Diaphram as short as possible for the connection to the pivot point & it is still all the way back against the firewall, thus I had to shim out 3/8" between the bracket & booster. Thought I would mention this in case you have the same one. It does say that you may have to make modifications in bold lettering.

   I am a little confused on the residual valves myself. I was just going to mount 2 blocks where the original is, or use unions, etc.      I also found on an old post here to use a t-fitting on the front brake side of the resorvoir to install the brake switch which is real good info!                  Mike

     

Ron,

          The whole point of a residual valve is to prevent the pistons from returning all the way back to a mechanical rest. If you don't use one in the front brakes, you'll have to pump the brakes one or two times to get any braking from them. That's every time you stop after a couple minutes of not using them. I'd use the valves. 

I just read the part about the DRUM brakes again. Shouldn't have to use them on drums when adjusted properly, but they won't hurt anything, either.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Just purchased a Power Brake Setup with 7" Dual Diaphragm Booster, 1" Bore Corvette Style (no residual valves) M/C, firewall bracket and pedal linkage.

It goes on a 4-wheel drum brake '55 Ford Customline. My question is........do I need 10# residual valves in the front and rear lines? The M/C is mounted high on the firewall far above the wheel cylinders.

If I don't use residual valves, what will the pedal feel like or doesn't it make any difference?  MFG. recommends residual valves!!!

Thanks to all for any input~~~~~Ron

Still Livin In The 50's!!!  '55 Tudor Customline with a 312ci Merc/4-Speed/Granada Rear.