Try connecting with Mummert Machine (link from here) & ask how much they increase the depth of the oil groove on all the cams they sell. Apparently all later cam cores manufactured, have the groove to shallow, according to John M.


Paul

I don't know about that, what I witnessed happened from 1963 to 1971.

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This would have been in the late 50's to about 1960.

Ah-Ha!
On S. Main in Akron? The Flame was right around the corner on Waterloo Rd.
People would race right there on Waterloo or it was a short drive to a flat, straight section of the expressway where sometimes a caravan of spectator cars would come along and pull over to watch a big race. Some guys even trailered the cars that weren't street legal. What a scene. Those were the days! 
Frank, I think I know who you are. I'm a friend of Roger D. 

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gaga, I' remember Lujans. Raised in north canton



Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

A modern, built Y Block will handle most of the muscle car era stock stuff no problem.  Esp if you choose a lighter car  (like the  54) .The problem comes that on the street today everyone has stepped up their game with better parts so cubic inches handicap the Y Block.. A 330 cube Y Block can make 400 horse pretty easy with the parts we have now. I had a ported iron head 292 with cam, headers,  and Mummert intake that made 325 hp and was very streetable. My 333 EMC motor with a smallish cam, Mummert heads and intake and a 750 Carb made 465 dyno horse and idled at 750 rpm.. With a loose converter, some gears and a 54 business coupe you could embarrass some scrubies

"Unless she will run/stay with a 69 NOVA 396/375, you better stay @ THE DRIVE-IN sucking on a malted and aggravating the car hops."


Well, I suppose.
BUT in 1964 a good friend had a '54 Ford business coupe with a '57 312, T-10 and 4.11 open rear end that would regularly mop up goats, 442s and 383 mopars in street races. The engine was well tuned and stock and the car was gutted except for the front bench seat. 
Anybody remember "The Flame" and "Lujans" in Akron?

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GOOD INFO,some time ago re teds info i installed a flapper in my rear sump aswell increased the amount of oil,no longer loose oil pressure on barking,it was more evident since i put disc brakes on the front of my y powered 1949 mere f47. thanks ted.

... want a good running Y WITH DECENT POWER TO SHAKUP THE GM DUDES

Unless she will run/stay with a 69 NOVA 396/375, you better stay @ THE DRIVE-IN sucking on a malted and aggravating the car hops.

That was the street mark in my day.

FORD finally came through with running an extra quart on the 428CJ/SCJ to prevent starvation at the end of the track. The 7-QT oil pan was a must (IMO).

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If you’ll look at the owners’ manuals for the Y equipped cars and pickups, they will say five quarts plus one extra for the filter.  Too many of the dipsticks confuses this as they will show being full at five quarts with the filter change.  The HD engines in the trucks require seven quarts with a filter change.
 
The oil pickup to pan distance has much to do with the point in which an engine starves for oil.  I target for no more than ¼”-3/8” pan clearance.  Then the bearing clearances are another factor to compensate for as additional clearances simply increases oil flow throughout the engine.  For the pickups and truck engines with the rear sump oil pans, a baffle is needed to prevent oil slosh to the front when braking.  Not all those pans come from the factory with an installed baffle.
 
I recently had a Y on the dyno with a truck oil pan and the oil pressure was dropping when the engine was held at a steady state 3500 rpms.  It would take about three minutes of higher rpm sustained running for this to happen.  This engine had five quarts of oil in it and adding another quart alleviated that problem but does give you an idea of how critical the oil level is.  I recommended to the customer for that particular engine that they run at bare minimum seven quarts of oil with a filter change.
 
I drag stripped a 427 High Riser that was experiencing an oil pressure drop at the end of the quarter mile with seven quarts of oil in a deep sump pan.  Adding two more quarts of oil fixed that problem and there was no change in ET’s meaning there was no additional oil was splashing up into the crankshaft as a result of the additional oil.  I tried running 9 quarts of oil in my Y-Block powered roadster but never could get the oil pickup position happy where I had oil pressure both on acceleration and stopping.  Depending upon the oil pickup location, it was experiencing an oil pressure drop either during acceleration or braking.  I went to a dry sump oiling system and now only run five quarts with zero oil pressure issues.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)