Does this engine need ZDDP additive?  It is .30 over and rebuilt.

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc formula provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. Its exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing, including paved and dirt ovals and drag racing. It is formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.      

As VR1 is "racing oil", they specify a 3 month/3000 mile oci, extended oil drain by time intervals are not recommended. It may because they do not include the detergent/dispersants package that normal motor oils have.

It's my understanding that these additives don't make any distinction between zinc or sludge or carbon on components. This is apparently one reason "break-in" oils have very little in the way of detergents. I'm not poor but VR1 pencils out to something like $140 annually (+ filters.)

Lots of opinions on this topic.  I use VR-1 because it's readily available and is compatible with solid lifter engines.  I change my oil when it looks dirty.  This means I change it often.  No science about that.  I order VR-1 online because it's much cheaper than the local auto parts stores and there is no delivery charge. I would not use synthetic oil in a YBlock.  I use it in all my modern cars.  There is a place for those oils and it's not in a 60 year old engine.  Just my opinion for what it's worth.

Phil, I'm curious as to why not use a synthetic oil in a Y block after break in?

If I'm rebuilding it using a modern ring and hone according to manufacturers specs. Bearing material has no bearing on type of oil used, nor anything else. In fact because of friction reducers in synthetic I would think it would be the best oil to use. 
I personally use synthetic oil in my daily driver and race car, also plan to use it in my Y block when finished.
Just curious as to your opinion why not?

Dave 
Even VR1 which is being touted as the thing to use advertises friction reducers

Carburetor engines tend to have fuel wash down upon start and warm up conditions.  Fuel dilutes, washes down the cylinder walls, and collects in the oil, which causes it to deteriorate quicker than fuel injection engines.  If you have a modern EFI installed on the Y, or a fresh build with good quality rings/cylinder clearances, then after break-in, a synthetic should work fine.  A good high capacity ignition system will help with more complete combustion process, and that helps with less fuel dilution in the oil.  Joe-JDC

JDC

As VR1 is "racing oil", they specify a 3 month/3000 mile oci, extended oil drain by time intervals are not recommended. It may because they do not include the detergent/dispersants package that normal motor oils have.

VR-1 is not actually a RACING OIL but an oil intended for old tech engines. VALVOLINE has different product(s) for a true race engine.

As for change frequency, an older engine runs dirtier than modern engines, hence the need for more frequent changes.

There are specialty oils for flat tappet break-in. You drop that after run-in and go with whatever oil you decide on.

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But I can't buy it in Calif anymore and didn't find anyone who would ship it here either.

- CA EMISSION LAWS -

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I was just researching this since I use VR1.  On the 540ratblog, https://540ratblog.wordpress.com many (maybe all, super long document that I don't care to read all the way through) of the oils he tested were sent out for analysis.  The VR1 has as much detergents/dispersants as any other street oil, more than some and less than others.  Mobil 1 5w30 is one that I saw that has less. Pennzoil 5w30 Ultra is one I saw that has more.  Both of these are definite street oils.
The VR1 test results, 10w30, had much higher zinc and phosphorous than Valvoline indicate that it should, https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 so either Valvoline is providing incorrect information or testing was done incorrectly or the test sample was contaminated or something else so it is possible that the test results cannot be trusted.

On a related note, a youtube channel I watch recently did a comparison between a 70 year old can of Quaker State and modern Quaker State.  The canned oil had no significant difference in zinc and phosphorous, and no detergents.  Some caveats, it did not take into account any possible reduction in those due to extended contact with the can or chemical reactions / degradation taking place.  I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea if those are actual concerns but it's something to consider.  A lot of natural phenomenon can happen to something sitting on a shelf for 70 years.  https://youtu.be/-zHlxeu_yuM Test results start at about 10 minutes.






Lawrenceville, GA