Hi all,

After getting the engine running, I had a few starter issues. Some cranks the starter would just spin and when it did engage it sounded like it was still meshed in the flywheel.

I put 12v on the starter to engage the plunger (but not spin) and the starter gear hits the flywheel. I can lever the gear to mesh with the flywheel but it seems the tolerances are too tight between the starter teeth and the flywheel teeth as once the gear is meshed it won’t return when released.

I have had this starter since the rebuild on the engine run stand and it hasn’t misfired once. I did read the an old flywheel can cause a few meshing issues.

Has anyone had any experience with powermaster starters?

-272
-59 truck
-4speed





Engaged


Disengaged



Just noticed that there is wear on the flywheel Teeth on the opposite side to the starter. Could I have possibly put the flywheel on the wrong way?




Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Not on solving your alignment which you may not have since it does contact 1/2 of the gear. but the distance between the starter gear at the rest position is a lot too much in my opinion. The engagement of the starter gear on the ring gear is not enough.
Many years ago when these small starters were new and were popular for the C word and I wanted one on a C word 1957 6 cylinder 2 bolt bellhousing I had one made by coping the original cast iron starter dimensions. I changed flywheels and had this exact problem. Had to take the machined aluminum adapter I had made off the unit and remove metal off it to bring the whole starter/gear combo closer to the flywheel gear while at rest. It worked for many years.
Strangely enough I’ve built an engine with a stock flywheel and now need to move it back. I’m lucky there is a spot for a shim between the starter motor and the aluminum made plate. Sorry this so long.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Drylakes,

I agree, the starter gear looks like it rests to far from the flywheel. I lost the instruction (or maybe they went out with the packaging) but I can remember the suggested resting gap distance and can’t find the 9002 part number instructions online.

I might take it to the machine shop to remove some material.


Thanks, Dennis.

56 F100 - 272 Y Block
NSW, Australia.

Dennis I remember the starter holes in mine were very large and I used bushings in the holes for a better fit. I found some tubing I had laying around the right size and used that.

  Vic Correnti

This may be way out there. I realize the original starter pulled from the rear and the new ones push from the front. If I was building a new engine I might make 3or4 1/2” weld stiches on the opposite side just in case.

What do you think about doing the welding thu the starter hole? Yes it would take time to get equidistant and proper marking, and disconnecting all electronics, and grounding right next to the work. With all the steering in the way it may take some time but to me better than removing the trans. To me it wouldn’t take much to add stability to the original weld....what do you guys think?

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.