With the water drained from the engine, it’s more prone to condensation from within as it doesn’t have the coolant to act as a temperature damper or buffer to slow down temperature changes.  So the two problems are semi-related where the leaking anti-freeze allowed for increased condensation amounts within the cylinders of the engine.  Condensation was likely worse on those cylinders that had an open intake or exhaust valve as those cylinders would be in effect be ‘breathing’ as the atmospheric pressure changed.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, Just as you suggested earlier, I pulled the valve covers to insure all was well with the valve train and my worst fears were realized. I now have 3 pushrods far down into the bores. I was able to retrieve one with a magnet stick and it was straight and true. I didn't bother yet with the other two cause after seeing what was going on in there, I got kinda sick and cleaned up my mess and called it a day.

I am not so sure now that I didn't have a problem with the valves just before I put it into storage. I was getting some fuel spitting from the tailpipes. Not much mind you, but enough to catch my attention.

What would you suggest be my next course of action? I really need help here. I am in no way an engine guy and I live in a Podunk town with only one service garage.

HELP!

My wife said she would divorce me if I bought another car. It scared me so bad I only bought 3 last month!

In your somewhat isolated situation and assuming you are not planning on racing or long distance high speed driving, I would try to get the engine running unless you are prepared for a complete rebuild. As others have said some rust in the cyl's isn't the worst thing that could be wrong.  The Cyl walls are the most likely parts to have rust since there was very litle oil there when you shut it down.  This is not the case with bearings cam timing chain etc. 

As Ted has suggested rap each valve with a soft hammer to be sure it is free.  At this time check all valve springs to be sure none are broken . 

Also if your magnet isn't strong enough to lift a pushrod then bend a piece of coathanger wire to just slip around the head of the pushrod and lift it out with that. Don't jam the PR down with the magnet, they can wedge into the hole sometimes and be really annoying to get out. 

I would also take the rocker arm assemblies off and make sure all all rockers rotate on the shaft and the oil holes are clear in shaft.  Also check the surface that contacts the valve on each rocker. This should be a smooth contour but is very common to have a  depression warn into this surface.  Such a depression makes adjusting the valves almost impossible. It is possible to grind the surface down to the depression so that the feeler gauge can get directly between the valve and rocker.

This is also a good time to clean out the black sludge that may be in the heads and rocker arm covers.  Be sure the drain holes at the back of the heads are clear.  This can be a problem because the top rear head bolt runs right through the drain hole. If it is really gunked up a lot you can remove the one head bolt and run a bore brush through the hole. Of course you need to re torque the head bolt after this cleaning.  I am not exactly recommending this but I have done it and didn't have a problem.

As you put the push rods and rockers back use a lot a fresh oil poured liberally over the valves rockers and pushrods.  After you get it running check that there is oil coming out the copper colored overflow tubes in each rocker assembly and that each rocker is getting oil.

You can still have a lot of little problems such as bad ignition wires bad valve stem seals but if you put it away with the mechanicals ok then they still are.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

I used a stainless dental pick to recover the rest of the pushrods. It worked on one try! Now I have several valves that are STUCK. No matter how I try, I am unable to loosen them up. I sprayed a concoction of WD 40 and Marvel Mystery Oil on the stickers. Is there anything else I can do?

My wife said she would divorce me if I bought another car. It scared me so bad I only bought 3 last month!

ok, so you're making some progress. try using a wooden mallet or rest a block of wood on each of the valve ends and tap on them to loosen with a hammer. be gentle. you'll hear the change in sound of the loosened ones..they will spring downward. The wd-40 concoction will work given some time. but no garantees. just takes some patience.

get that part done first, then we'll work thru the next stuff.



by the way where is this podunk town anyway? I think I live in one too!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I thought I would throw in my two cents.

WD-40 is not a rust dissolving product. It is a water displacing product. The water is gone and rust is left.

I would not use Marvel Oil for this, yes it is an upper cylinder lube but not really for rust.



Use PB Blaster, it can be found at any auto parts store. Buy a spray can use it and let it soak down the valve stems. As has been said use a soft dead blow hammer or block of wood and hammer. They will come free.



PB Blaster down the cylinders will also free the rings. The stuff smells bad but works Great!



Good luck

Jim

  Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE

Something I have found that releases rust very well is used, old non-silicone brake fluid.  New stuff out of the bottle doesn't work very well.  Must be the dissolved water in the old stuff that helps.  I have put it on old exhaust U clamp nuts and after a few minutes backed them right off.  Today I had some bolts on the hood hinges of my '53 F350 that acted like they were going to twist off, put some brake fluid on them and they backed right off with a short end wrench.  Just my 2 cents.

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Another good penetrant for frozen or rusty parts is a spray called Rust-Solv.  Made by Aervoe Industries Inc., Gardnerville, NV.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ok guys. Need your assistance again. I hosed down the valve train several times but good with PB Blaster. I have 4 valves stuck open.I loosened up the rockers for the stuck valves and removed the pushrods. Light to moderate tapping on the valves have done no good. I also shot a goodly amount into the spark plug holes. Is there anyway possible to rig something up to pull the valves up? I am about at wits end.

My wife said she would divorce me if I bought another car. It scared me so bad I only bought 3 last month!

If all else fails then you could try to fill the cylinder with a length of nylon rope. Hand turn the engine and with the rope between the top of the piston and the bottom of the valve it will exert upward force. That or a bigger hammer. Pete