Update . . . . 2 things:
#1. The engine hasn’t run this good in years. Idle is very smooth which at times in the past shook on occasion. It is also very quiet; I’ve always set the lash at .019” and could hear some noise so hopefully this type of work is done. I’m sure cleaning the carbon build up off the intake valves helped with that. Maybe the de-burring of the oil passages in the heads helped. 
#2 . I removed the bypass plug which had been in for 8-9 years when I was trying almost anything to keep cool in traffic. A few members here said it was not needed and they were right. The fan speed and shroud came much later and probably solved the problem. The engine now heats up quicker and when reaching the temp for the thermostat stays for the most part at temp and maybe moves a needles width. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I’ve had the car out 3 times. No leaks so far or noises I was not expecting. Bypass plug has been removed. Reaches temperature a little faster than before and is steady unless sitting at stop lights for a long light. Outside temp had been 80+ goes right down when moving to what is normal on the factory gauge. Exhaust temps are all about the same right at the cylinder head. The engine has a slightly different sound I’m guessing getting carbon build up off the intake valve may be the reason. Sure glad all my heater parts are removed and I do not have a vacuum booster. Not looking forward to ever doing this again..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Lord. 100% sure it’s the only 292 with  +.040” in 7 cylinders and a 312 std in one hole making it 4/10” bigger than a 292+40. The replacement piston is within 2 grams of the original piston. Doing a .010” hone in one cylinder in the car was not fun especially with protecting everything else, keeping  it clean, and runout at less than 0005”. Skirt clearance is at ,0015”.  I’m glad it wasn’t #4 or #8. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

That engine looks awesome.
Sounds like you've done a very thorough job and like you said, the cause of the problem is water under the bridge. Please keep us updated.

P.S. Those HF moving blankets make great fender covers don't they? 

"FREE SAMPLE"

Lord………that was always my first thought, but that single set was installed 2000 miles and 2 years ago. The rings were NOS Ford like I said above with hard to see marks and the top ring was chrome. I do check plugs occasionally and they were all the same. Water under the bridge now.

Up date is it’s back together only the left side intake gave me any problems as the gasket didn’t want to split the the intake ports. A little bolt hole work and stickum on the outside edge was needed. They were Bests. Like above I cranked it over for 30 second with no spark plugs and it’s ignition off. I watched  all the push rod spin and that was enough time to fill both carbs. I also took the time to taper the exhaust flapper valve eliminator, apparently they aren’t for 312’s and I’ve changed mine.

Since the distributor was never moved after a few full pumps it started right up. There noise from an intake rocker on #6 but the rest were fine. All were set at .019 cold. After the temp was close to normal  I shut it down and check them all somehow the ticker was at.024. No leaks I can see and the paint smell makes happy right now. Tomorrow I’ll install the lower frame to engine shields and install the air cleaner. The oil fill tube will hold a piece of blue shop towel so the PCV system is working fine. There was no oil film found in the valve, hose ends, or tube in the system. I also wiped all the spark plug wires with brake clean and all of the looked great for 10 yrs old. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Might it be possible that you installed the oil scraper (second ring) ring upside down in that cylinder? 

"FREE SAMPLE"

Yes,  left all others alone; only removed the carbon ridge with a razor blade and vacuum cleaner. Could not feel any ridge forming. Only cleaned that 3/8” area of the other cylinders and the tops of the pistons. Used cardboard seals in all the other cylinders on that bank when cleaning. Vacuum cleaner was always on, Tough to do in the car. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

James. Did you put a fresh hone or some kind of cross-hatch on that cylinder you replaced the rings on?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I too have the 15(16” MC. Mine work great, better than all drum but slightly under vacuum assist. I also have 11 x 2-1/4” rear drums from a F-150. Since there is room I wish I would have drilled a hole in my pedal arm above the stock one for a little more mechanical advantage. It would never go into any bind. Now with my AC panel it would be tough to do. I would cut a bolt shank to fill the hole I didn’t use so I wouldn’t loose any of the pedal arm strength. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Thanks, DLR. You're the 2nd person who said he used the Mustang MC/pushrod. Mine is not yet in service, so I'll go ahead and get the Mustang pushrod and compare. My MC is 15/16ths, which was recommended by Wilwood and Dave (Drop 'em, Stop 'em) for disc/drum manual brakes.