Several years ago I rebuilt the original Holly teapot 4 barrel carb on my 56 Victoria and could never tune out the off idle hesitation. The carb otherwise idled and ran fine. I later learned a teapot will not function well with the later model distributer that was on my later model COTE 292. At the time I did not want to buy the very pricey dual diaphragm distributer and ended installing an Autolite 2100 2 barrel and manifold which has served me well with the exception of vapor lock on hot days.
I have recently modified the teapot, using the Ted Eaton article which was indeed easy to do. I did not however order a Power valve block off but gutted the original valve and plugged the opening with J B weld. Plan is to reinstall the stock 4 barrel manifold and teapot carb and use the hot air chock. A new heat tube is in place.
Possible problem is: Tee Bird Products must have assumed I didn't want burned paint on my intake manifold and sent me the intake gaskets with the small restricted holes. My preference is to have the hot air choke to work as well as possible and to put up with scorched paint. I wonder if anyone has found if the choke will work well with the restrictions. Thinking of using a hole saw to enlarge the holes. I am not a hot rodder and prefer an original smooth running motor that is as fuel efficient as possible. I also hope to hear replies from anyone else who has done the teapot conversion. I will be satisfying to return my Victoria back to the 4 barrel  and use a 4 barrel manifold that would have been melted down.

By the way, I remember back about 15 years ago when just a rebuildable teapot core was advertised for $200.00.. They go much cheaper now 

I have the limiting metal gaskets gasket and the exhaust heated choke on my 56 for 10 years and the choke works perfect. I do not set  the choke blades to any more closed than to raise the rpm to the next higher idle. I live in a mild climate where the full choke is not as important but need the faster idle when first starting out and slight choking. It always comes off with in a mile or two.  Last year I removed the exhaust flapper on the right side and installed a spacer they make and everything still works great. Hope this helps.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Thanks for the focused advise. I think i will try factory settings on the choke to start with and also use the restricted gaskets. I'm glad you also mentioned leaving out the flapper as I planned on doing the same. Did you also convert your teapot to run with a later distributer. My primary concern is eliminating the stumble off idle.  Thanks

I have the modified teapot, 57 distributor and the small opening intake gaskets.  I also remvoed the flapper valve on the exhaust.  My choke seems to function normally although I have not used the car much in a cold weather situation but when I have the car seems to warm up ok.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

IIRC, the intake manifold gaskets used to come with the large opening and a small filler plate with the round opening. I was told those were for heavy usage, trucks mainly. I’ve always run the small opening, and never had an icing problem or extended cold warm up. Once you block the heat riser exhaust valve open you’ll probably get almost as much heat thru anyway. If your running gas with ethanol in it, it evaporates easier anyway. Hence the vapor lock/heat soak problems.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I have found that some of the hesitation issues now encountered with the Teapot 4V carbs (model 4000) is due to the use of ethanol laden fuel.  Jetting the primary side two numbers fatter typically fixes that particular problem without hurting the fuel economy.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, I have found a modification of teapots with off idle hesitation.  With the top cover and gasket off the fuel bowl, you can see two pairs of D shaped holes with the Ds back to back.  Between those holes, in the common wall, is a very small hole.  That hole determines the idle fuel mixture, the idle adjusting screws determine the quantity of that fuel mixture reaching the engine.  With the alcohol based fuels of today, that fuel mixture is too lean.  I don't know the original size of those holes but drilling them with a .027 diameter drill bit richens the idle mixture enough to eliminate the stumble.  I tried a .032 drill bit, but that was too rich.  The main jets don't have to be made larger with this change.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

John.  Thanks for that bit of information. That sounds like a good alternative which I’ll look at in detail the next time I have a Teapot carbed Y on the dyno.  I will verify the original size of the hole before I make any changes as I typically target for 0.003” changes when making fuel or air circuit changes.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thank you all for the advice on my teapot hesitation. Until now, I have assumed the problem was caused by my running a stock rebuilt teapot with a later 57 and up distributer with single diaphragm. I have made the modifications to the teapot and am anxious to change my car back to the original 4 barrel. I am a purist who feels like I am preserving a piece of history. If the mods I have made don't eliminate the stumble, I will try richer jets before I try using the drill. I don't think anyone will know or care that I am not running a dual diaphragm dizzy.

Would it be possible to modify the teapot to accept adjustable air bleeds in that area?


Lawrenceville, GA