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Generator light stays on with ignition off

Posted By DANIEL TINDER Last Year
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cokefirst
Posted 3 Months Ago
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This must be a new change in their policy.  I bought the -2 units for both my 1955 Thunderbirds.  Once I discovered the problem and spoke to 3 different techs about it, They send me an email with the wiring instructions for the relay.  They did not offer to send me one for either unit.  I was told that due to the small quantities of these unites they sell, it was not cost effective to include the internal electronics to make the generator light work.  It is nice that they have partially rectified the situation. 
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 4 Months Ago
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cokefirst (1/20/2025)
I have two 1955 Thunderbirds that I have put the Powermaster Power Gen alternator on.  They do make one with the terminal for the generator light, BUT there is a catch.  I have installed the 12 volt version on all 4 of my mid 50's vehicles and I absolutely love them!!   A few years ago I was at SEMA and I asked the representative if they made the 6 volt version with the generator light terminal.  He told me that I just needed to order one with the -2 at the end and it would have the terminal.  I finally got around to ordering the units and installing them and then I discovered a problem.  I installed the unit with a hot wire to the output terminal in the back, and the ground wire was also installed.  So far, so good.  Now I hooked up the generator light terminal and even though the alternator was charging, the generator light continued to illuminate.  I called their technical and got a few BS answers about how you can't connect the generator light wire from the alternator directly to the wire at the regulator that feeds the light.  After a few calls and having none of their supposed fixes work, I finally got someone who understood the problem.  Apparently they do not sell enough of these units to put an internal system in them to make them work like their 12 volt units.   They told me I had to buy and install a relay in the generator light circuit.  They then gave me the part number for the relay and instructions on how to wire it so that the light will work.  It is unfortunate that they did not include these instructions with the unit, since someone in their engineering and technical department knew that the normal wiring would not operate the light properly.  


UPDATE:
FYI: The 6V (-2) unit now includes the relay & instructions.  Built on request.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 4 Months Ago
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That’s weird. I guess they just expected us to get used to the gen. light being on all the time their unit was working, which would likely require frequent bulb changes.
I don’t get why the 12V (-2) units are any different.  They must include some kind of relay circuit that breaks connection to the gen. light when powered.  Plus, would a relay circuit still provide the varying bulb brightness of the orig. OEM setup, that indicated power draw intensity?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
cokefirst
Posted 4 Months Ago
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I have two 1955 Thunderbirds that I have put the Powermaster Power Gen alternator on.  They do make one with the terminal for the generator light, BUT there is a catch.  I have installed the 12 volt version on all 4 of my mid 50's vehicles and I absolutely love them!!   A few years ago I was at SEMA and I asked the representative if they made the 6 volt version with the generator light terminal.  He told me that I just needed to order one with the -2 at the end and it would have the terminal.  I finally got around to ordering the units and installing them and then I discovered a problem.  I installed the unit with a hot wire to the output terminal in the back, and the ground wire was also installed.  So far, so good.  Now I hooked up the generator light terminal and even though the alternator was charging, the generator light continued to illuminate.  I called their technical and got a few BS answers about how you can't connect the generator light wire from the alternator directly to the wire at the regulator that feeds the light.  After a few calls and having none of their supposed fixes work, I finally got someone who understood the problem.  Apparently they do not sell enough of these units to put an internal system in them to make them work like their 12 volt units.   They told me I had to buy and install a relay in the generator light circuit.  They then gave me the part number for the relay and instructions on how to wire it so that the light will work.  It is unfortunate that they did not include these instructions with the unit, since someone in their engineering and technical department knew that the normal wiring would not operate the light properly.  
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 4 Months Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (1/4/2025)
Have you polarized the generator after replacing the regulator?


Yes, twice. Armature must be cooked.


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 4 Months Ago
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KULTULZ (1/4/2025)
Just have to determine which electrical components differentiate between the T-Bird & passenger generators (aside from the end plates), and ID the part #


Do you have the GEN ID NO?


Have the orig. T-Bird generator, and its end plate looks good. The NOS armature # is correct.  Unless the field coils also got damaged, should rebuild ok (fingers crossed).
BTW: Damned if I can figure why they rated the pass. gen at 35A, and the T-bird at 40A, since it looks like the replacement parts have the same #.  Unless the T-bird pulley was a different size (?)


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Hoosier Hurricane
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Have you polarized the generator after replacing the regulator?

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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KULTULZ
Posted 4 Months Ago
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Just have to determine which electrical components differentiate between the T-Bird & passenger generators (aside from the end plates), and ID the part #


Do you have the GEN ID NO?



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FORD DEARBORN
Posted 4 Months Ago
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It appears you solved the problem of a stuck cutout relay as you haven't reported seeing a spark when connecting or disconnecting the battery. However, the generator is not building up enough to close the cutout relay in the new regulator indicating issues within the gen. Is the vehicle's grounding connections good,tight and clean? Especially the grounding wire from the regulator to the generator? What would be the possibility of finding a shop or auto parts store with a generator/alternator test stand to test your generator? Or, open up the gen and have a look sniff and see, like nothing to loose doing that. A lot of good information on this thread that suggests an alternator conversion would be a good and reliable way to go. I would guess a 6 volt alternator would improve the electrical system in ways the 12 volt alternator did for the 12 volt cars, like producing charging current while the engine is idling just to name one. 



64F100 57FAIRLANE500
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 4 Months Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (1/2/2025)
Daniel - I can't help with information on a 6V alternator conversion as I have no experience with that. If the cutout relay contacts were stuck in your old regulator, that would have applied full 6V to the armature. If the battery was good and fully charged, a fair amount of heat would build up within the armature possibly damaging it. Depending on how much time you are able to put into this, there are numerous tests that can be done, one of which is to perform a gen output test and go from there.    I'm curious about the gen light now being "off" but does it go on when the engine is not running with the ignition switch on? Sounds like you have another "parts donor" generator that needs attention also. One unfortunate thing is that parts are quite scarce for these 6V generators.  Good luck....


The Gen light comes on initially, and goes nearly off when idling, but gets progressively brighter as RPMs increase.  If it is the armature that was damaged, turns out I have a NOS part somewhere.  I could maybe use that (along with new brushes, bearings & springs I already have) to rebuild the damaged original 40A generator (?). Just have to determine which electrical components differentiate between the T-Bird & passenger generators (aside from the end plates), and ID the part #..  Even if I get it restored and working though, I may put it away & spring for the pricey alternator anyway, as the extra juice would come in handy (‘driver’ car).


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA


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