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Robs36Ford
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Group: Forum Members
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Another thing that can make bubbling noise is low coolant
1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1
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DANIEL TINDER
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Robs36Ford (9/1/2025)
The cover has several of the air bleeds that control the fuel timing at different RPM. Running without, for other than idle and just off idle, would not work well at all. But as a test after the engine is hot, pull it off to see if it is flooding or boiling fuel. Ensure your Fire Extinguisher is handy and charged ! Bubbling sounds are usually the gas boiling due to heat soak or lots of air getting in. Do you have a phenolic carb spacer ? It's 1/2" and black colour under the carb to stop the heat from the intake. Without the spacer the carb WILL get too HOT ! Is your exhaust heat crossover leaking ? that could cause extra flow of hot exhaust into carb area making the fuel boil. I believe the 55 has an intake mounted choke. Was that changed to the later Carb mounted style ? If the fuel filter has clogged and broken that could let dirt into the needle and seat of the carb making it flood the engine. but that would continue even when the engine cools down. Just a few thoughts.... :-) Car ran great, even with the power valve continuously open (just poor mileage). Believe I’ll warm the motor with only a couple float cover bolts barely snugged, and then pull the cover quickly to check the level. I’ll run only the aux. elect. pump first with the cover off, to check it before starting. If the crossover IS leaking, then the teapot issue is indeed null. Carb body doesn’t feel hot though. Mystery is why after the bubbling dies down, opening the throttle starts it again (?).
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DANIEL TINDER
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KULTULZ (9/1/2025)
You post 'anther carburetor'. Do you mean you have a later style carb that you want to install (update) rather than repairing the present
New 465 HOLLEY. Manual says elect. choke needs 12V though. I have a small transformer that might work in case. Also have to likely rig the linkage.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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Robs36Ford
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Group: Forum Members
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The cover has several of the air bleeds that control the fuel timing at different RPM. Running without, for other than idle and just off idle, would not work well at all. But as a test after the engine is hot, pull it off to see if it is flooding or boiling fuel.
Ensure your Fire Extinguisher is handy and charged !
Bubbling sounds are usually the gas boiling due to heat soak or lots of air getting in.
Do you have a phenolic carb spacer ? It's 1/2" and black colour under the carb to stop the heat from the intake. Without the spacer the carb WILL get too HOT !
Is your exhaust heat crossover leaking ? that could cause extra flow of hot exhaust into carb area making the fuel boil. I believe the 55 has an intake mounted choke. Was that changed to the later Carb mounted style ?
If the fuel filter has clogged and broken that could let dirt into the needle and seat of the carb making it flood the engine. but that would continue even when the engine cools down.
Just a few thoughts.... :-)
1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1
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KULTULZ
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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You post 'anther carburetor'. Do you mean you have a later style carb that you want to install (update) rather than repairing the present H4000? Peruse through this site (lots of TECH) - https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/4000-rebuild/If you don't come across an answer, maybe call and see if he as an opinion. I have never been into one. In fact, the first time I actually saw one, it took me a little off as I started with FE with either a F4100 or H4150. If your present H4000 was gone through and modified by PONY CARB, I would try and have that one repaired. Maybe buy a core for parts. Let the board know what you decide.
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DANIEL TINDER
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Looks like a #1078. Car is a driver. Even with mostly premium fuel, 70K miles with any alcohol content likely means it’s due for a rebuild. But, an academic issue if I change to the new Holley. A lot of trouble & expense only to benefit an eventual restorer. I wonder if it would be safe to run the motor with the float cover off? If gas is draining/leaking into the manifold faster than the pump can fill, that might explain the bubbling sound (and why it runs fine initially).
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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KULTULZ
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Maybe these will be helpful -
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KULTULZ
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"I never thought to check the list # of the refurbished 4000 PONY sold me. Guess I should. Don't know what they did to make it run so much stronger than the locally rebuilt orig (which I now wish I hadn’t sold), but if I could only diagnose my current issue, I would just have it rebuilt (assuming the AC stud threads could be repaired, and I could find a replacement float cover)" So the carb you have mounted now is not the car assembly carb but a modified H4000 from PONY CARB (and yes, they were good)? And you sold the original carb? Can you post the LIST NO. of the present carb?
I think Ted has a correct LIST NO(s). core he is offering you. Most likely your present carb needs to be gone through, especially if has running ethanol laced gasoline. Plus it was modified by PONY CARB.
Is your BIRD a driver, survivor or restoration ? Do you plan on restoring it (numbers correct)?
There are services out there that can fully restore the carb further than what I showed above. They (above) are more in the line of service repair.
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DANIEL TINDER
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Ted (8/28/2025)
Daniel. Is your particular carb a List #1077 or #1078? The list numbers will be found at the rear lower flange of the carb. These two numbers were particular to the 1955 Thunderbird. Are you looking to simply repair your carb or replace it? And if replacing it, are you looking for the correct numbered carb for your application or would a non-correct number Holley 4V model 4000 carb be suitable? Here’s the link to a past thread showing the List numbers of the various model 4000 carbs used by Ford. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost167355.aspx I never thought to check the list # of the refurbished 4000 PONY sold me. Guess I should.
Don't know what they did to make it run so much stronger than the locally rebuilt orig (which I now wish I hadn’t sold), but if I could only diagnose my current issue, I would just have it rebuilt (assuming the AC stud threads could be repaired, and I could find a replacement float cover), unless it’s secret could be discerned & duplicated.
Once I eliminate other factors (lash, timing, etc.), I may just forget it and install the new Holley & BT manifold though.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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DANIEL TINDER
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Interesting, thanks.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
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