I want to check the orientation and condition of my timing set.  Unless it looks brand new I will just replace it.

Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt holding the crank pulley?   Do I have to remove the radiator or oil pan to remove the timing cover?

Are you missing the bolt or just want to know socket size? The socket size is 13/16ths. I recommend you use the correct puller when removing the dampener. Damper Dudes said that mine was in better shape than most they receive because I didn't use a hammer to remove it. The correct puller & replacement bolt (if needed) are available from Tbird parts suppliers. 

You do not have to remove the oil pan, but you do need to remove the front bolts that are attached to the pan & front motor mount. You'll need to support the engine while removing the timing cover. If you can remove the dampener without removing the radiator, you won't need to remove the radiator to remove the timing cover. My radiator was already removed when I removed the dampener. 

You will have a lot more room to work if you remove the radiator. You still have to drain the cooling system so removing the radiator is not a big deal.

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54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Until I remove the radiator it's hard to fit a socket and extension inside the pulley.  I cannot see the bolt at all..........  I will remove the radiator and see what I come up with.

You had the damper rebuilt?   I thought I read they dio not have any rubber to wear out?

Unlike the car and truck FYB dampers where the timing marks are located on the damper ring, the timing marks on the Thunderbird damper are locked to the pulley.  The T-Bird damper ring is located behind the belt pulley and in front of the timing cover. The damper ring is ‘rubber’ mounted and can fail with age.
 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Does the rubber dry out and crack?  Hopefully a visual will tell me more once I get it off

The rubber loses both its adhesion and elastomer properties over time.  Picture that rubber being like the tires on your vehicle.  Environmental conditions will be a major contributor in how long that rubber actually holds up but don’t rule out leaking oil speeding up its demise.

If you see cracks or fraying in the rubber, consider getting the damper rebuilt.  Another clue is in the placement of the damper ring on the shaft.  If it shows visible signs of moving (unpainted surface showing), then you know that the damper has already slipped forward or backward.  For the Thunderbird dampers, I prefer to mark the damper ring with a mark that aligns with the TDC mark that's on the rear belt pulley so I can always catch when the damper does starts to slip on the shaft.

Total failure occurs when the damper ring comes loose and rattles against the timing cover.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Pretty much anything & everything made of rubber on my 55 Tbird had to be replaced due to dry rot. 

Removed the radiator, used a 13/16" socket with an impact wrench and the bolt came out.   I tried to make a "puller" out of some metal I had.  I welded a nut and inserted the metal bar into the pulley, using a threaded rod to push.  The metal plate bent, not sure about the strength of the metal but it took the weld.   After it bent, I had to cut the end off of the bar to remove it from the pulley.

I ordered the proper tool today.   Should I anticipate any issues when using the puller?

You should not have any problems using the correct puller; however, you might have considered buying the correct installation tool while you were at it. I realize that no one likes spending money on tools that seldom will be used, but sometimes you're money-ahead by doing so. Having the right tool saves time & prevents damage. 

I forgot about using an impact wrench to loosen the bolt. Definitely needed to remove the radiator.