first thing i did after i saw the prob..and still threw it again..idky

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

OK Guys, I took this question to heart and decided to put together a REAL price for a complete engine, assuming we all want the best, this engine will be close to stock with premium parts. This is for a 292, 312 would be more because of the main bearings and pistons.

Block; Hot tank, bore and hone, deck, and align hone

Crank and Rods; grind to whatever the core will bear, resize rods with ARP bolts, new pin bushings.

Heads; (Big valve heads ECZ-G, 113, EDB, ect) new guides (not liners) all the way trough, hard steel Ex. seats, Stainless 1.94" In and 1.6" Ex, Comp. springs and one piece retainers (7*)

Parts; Cast pistons with chrome rings, Clevite Rods, Mains, and cam bearings, New stock cam or regrind performance cam (I have the Guys at Oregon Cams do all my performance cams and am very happy with the results) double roller timing set, rebuilt rocker assemblies with new shafts converted to full pressure oiling, new tube push rods, new oilpump, and Fel Pro gaskets. Did I forget anything?

This would include complete assembly, with pan and valve covers, and Balanced.

Rebuilding a good core would cost $3700 for every thing listed above. The price could go up or down from there depending on what changes a person wanted, but this is the way I would want mine.

   

Tim

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Quite thorough, Tim, thanks. 

Now if really doing a stock rebuild and trying to keep costs down, subtract the replacement heads (will use the stock ones on hand), other "performance" stuff and assembly.  I would think it would be getting pretty close to the $2500 previously mentioned.  As you presumably have a spreadsheet, should be quite an easy thing to do.

Thx, TC

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas

     I think if a person wants just a stock "everyday" driver, and is willing to do most of the work themselves, it is possible to build an engine for considerably less than that price. Valves don't always have to be replaced, crankshafts don't always need to be ground. As for the block if you have little or no wear you may be able to re-ring, and if you do need to bore the block, decks and line bores for the most part stay in pretty good shape. I would recommend if the engine is apart that hard Ex. seats are installed, it will make the engine go a lot longer and might be as little as $100 on the final price.

    I came up with that kind of rebuild because that's the stuff I like,   Truth is the price can vary quite a bit, but for the most part I think the $2500 number can get you a good reliable long lasting stock engine at most good shops.

Tim

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

thanks to all..that was a great little list you put up there...gonna be great for anyone with the same question down the road..



THANKS A BUNCH!!!

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Thanks, Tim. 

And just to be honest, I did everything you listed plus some. 

TC

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas

I am currently in the process of having a stock 272 professionally rebuilt in Cleveland, Ohio. Other than replacing all the obvious stuff, I opted to up-grade the cam and lifters.It will probably be in the neighborhood of $2k when done. But, at least I'll know what's going back in the car. Of course, this does not include any peripherals. (i.e. fuel pump, starter, rebuilding carb,wiring, etc.) It seems to be the going price.

"You can lead a horse to water...but a pencil must be lead."

 

Cleveland, Ohio

One question, will you really know what is going back in the car?  Guys here are no doubt tired of hearing it, but I had a "professionally" rebuilt 292 done, which the guy didnt get ANYTHING right on, except the $3000 bill in 1993.  The point here is to learn everyting you can, do all that is feasable, to double check the end product and guide during the process.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I know this has been said before, but look at the shop you are going to have do your work and if they are a high production shop that dose mostly popular stuff (chevies) then they probably aren't going to know much about, or have the proper respect for your fine old "Y"

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Tim; On your cost estimate to rebuild a 292 can you break it down a little further? How much are you going to have to spend on the machine shop and how much for the various steps. IE bore and hone the cylinders, turn the crank, re-size the rods etc. It has been a while since I have done an engine and I know things have got crazy expensive so can you give some ballpark figures? Thanks Pete