I followed the threads regarding the lowering of the zinc content in the Rotella -t 10w-40 in 2007.  I went to wallmart and purchased 8 gallons and realized with reading glasses and magnifying glass that it had the CJ-4 rating which I now understand to be the "least" amount or possibly the 2007 standard. (multi colors on label)   I then went to another wallmart and found a couple of gallons of 10w-40 w/ the CI-4 rating  (mostly blue label)that I understand to be a more preferable zinc level.

I live in CA and I found Rotella 30Wt w/ only a CF-4 rating.  (mostly blue label) Would this be a higher zinc content?

The car will stay in CA is there any reason to not use a straight 30wt if the CF-4 is a higher content of zinc?

Thank you, paul f 

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CF-4 would be the earlier blend with high zinc. A straight 30 offers less cold start protection (not referring to ambient air temp) than a 10W-30 (which is available in ROTELLA T).

You will most likely only to be able to find the CI-4 product now at either a truck stop or Shell Oil Distributor.

-API ENGINE OIL CLASSIFICATION-

Paul,



Try another Wallmart. I found one in a small town a few days ago that still had a dozen gals. of the older 15W-40 on the shelf. I also picked up a lot of quarts as they are more handy for topping off, and I figure the higher price will still be less than whatever additive/racing oil we'll be force to use down the road!

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thank you for the heads up.

Hit 3 Walmarts today, 10 gallon jugs and 3 quarts, returned the "wrong" stuff.

Thanks All.   Happy Holidays.  PF   www.classicairstream.com

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suggest you read test results and wear test results on speed talk, very intensive tests put to rest the folk lore about rotela t and other diesel specific oils. in short they are less load before break down and should not be used on flat tapet cams. worked for cat dealer who sold shell oil ,we were sent info not to use the diesel specific oils in gas engines. if you wish i would send you a copy, some 30 pages of info. you will agree to forward to others. send mailing adress to ct1940@shaw.ca. need before jan 25 so i can mail while in the U.S.

Ted Eaton has a very informative article in the latest issue of YBM on oil, very interesting reading. For those who don't receive YBM, he posts the tech articles on his web site after they are out in print. FYI I have used reg Valvoline 15w40 in my 337" on Ted's advice and after two years and maybe 50 dragstrip passes I have seen no sign of wear.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Folklore has a verry slow death. cliff

Been using 15wx50 and 10wx40 syn for a few hundred thousand miles on each and no wear on my Yblocks at this point.

-Gary Burnette-

I ain't no expert by any stretch. But common sense tells me to use any automotive motor oil that is the correct weight for your type of driving and local climate. The newer oils have to meet a certain gov't standard or they can't be sold. I'm also not convinced that synthetics are that much better, specially with the old mills. Blow by happens in every engine, don't care how much you seal it up. Those combustion gases mix with the oil, can't be stopped. Make sure you keep the crank case vented and CHANGE THE OIL OFTEN. The most important factor in engine longevity is to change your oil often enough.



Oh and don't forget to keep fresh oil in the crank case.



Did I mention frequent oil changes?

Ted Eaton's recent article in Y-Blk Magazine was interesting, but was not primarily about Zinc alloy in oils. What was interesting, was that the old 10-40 oil ran at the lowest temperture & switching to 20-50 racing oil in his test mule engine, caused a loss of horsepower compared to the other 4 oils tested. In one case about 8 peak horsepower !

Paul