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Headers Source Needed

Posted By 57FordGuy 17 Years Ago
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pegleg
Posted 16 Years Ago
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57FordGuy (1/8/2009)
Frank,

Wow! If I remember some of the stuff I have read about the F-code setup, you are exceeding stock performance by quite a few horsepower.  Do you think a guy could duplicate your performance using an e-code repro?

I have a couple of cars besides the current Fairlane 500 for this blower project.  One is a Custom 300 with a 3-speed and overdrive powered by a 312 that my brother rebuilt in about 1969 or 1970. 

Mike,  I'd honestly be amazed if the E code made as much power as the F code. Check Vic Correnti's 'Bird though, it's an E code, 4 speed. Oh......yea, with a 250 hp nitrous setup!!w00t

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


57FordGuy
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Paul,

Guilty as charged.  I did not auction the Sunliner or any of my other 57 Ford cars.  The Sunliner sat out in the weather from 1971 or 1972 to 2000 so is in tough shape.  It had a crunched front end when it was parked and when my brother first bought it, it had thick layers of Bondo on the rear quarter panels and bad rot in the rockers and lower quarter panels.  It is currently stored inside, pending a major restoration project.  I have been too busy the past four years to start the project, and had a chance last year to buy a Fairlane 500 hardtop like I had in late highschool, so got diverted into putting that together with a Paxton blower setup, more or less the car I would have liked to build back in the 1960's, but could not afford.  The hardtop does not require nearly as much work as the Sunliner.  I will probably start work on the Sunliner in a few more years, after I finish a house building project and separate shop that are currently under construction, with me doing most of the building.  It takes one guy a long time to get this kind of stuff done, so the cars are on the back burner.  In the meantime, I continue to collect parts for the hardtop and the Sunliner, expecting to complete both cars in the future.

The auction four years ago did go well, with more than 125 cars and pickups sold.  I still regret having to sell some of the older cars, including a 57 Chrysler Imperial that was still road worthy, but a guy only has so much time to do things at my age and there was no point in letting them sit and rot and/or be vandalized.  I still have four complete 57 Fords and an additional two parted out bodies plus several extra 312 engines, so I have plenty of work to do on y-block projects in the future.

Mike

PF Arcand
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Mike: If you don't mind me asking, are you the person from Montana that wrote an extensive letter to Y-Blk magazine some years ago? The subject was partly about having to auction off the extensive equipment & cars your late Brother had on the farm. If so, I hope the auction went well.. It's to bad you couldn't find time & money to restore your brother's 57 Sunliner.. They are so much more attractive than retractables. (from the Vancouver B.C. area)

Paul
57FordGuy
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Hi Seppo,

Thanks for the article.  According to everything I have looked at since starting this research, 1-5/8 inch headers are more than adequate for the 5.0 liter engine.  Unfortunately, the dyno tests simply do not show enough difference between the two types of headers to support a conclusion about the effect of one versus the other.  The lack of good response to either set of headers tested suggests to me the test engine was affected more by air flow limitations in the intake manifold and/or heads than in the exhaust. 

Mike K

Hollow Head
Posted 16 Years Ago
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http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/29618_short_long_tube_headers_test/index.html

Just one test, but gives you an idea how this particular engine responded to different headers...

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e3fd9a79-e7c3-47ff-a648-8cd5.jpg Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

57FordGuy
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Frank (pegleg),

Regarding your January 3 comment about 1-3/4 pipes for your mildly supercharged car, the gas flow calculations in Corky Bell's book "Design, testing and installation of supercharger systems" will let you make sperate predictions about the primary pipe size and tailpipe sizes required for your application.  Without doing the calculations, but considering what I have been reviewing, my guess is you will find 1-3/4 inches is plenty big.

The other thing the experts writing these books say is that short primary pipes are appropriate for wide-open racing applications because they shift the torque curve into the higher rpm's where more power is generated.  This may not be the way to go on a street car because you will be weak on torque in the low and mid rpm's.  Again, this will all have to match up to your cam design and where it generates torque plus what you intend to use the engine for.

If I am understanding what they are saying, primary pipe diameter has to be sized for gas flow and probably does not affect anything but potential backpressure and restriction on the exhaust.  However, primary pipe length may have an effect on the range of rpm where torque occurs.  Evidently, with enough supercharger pressure, the latter effects may go away.  For those of us using relatively mild boost superchargers, the length of the header primaries may still be important (my interpretation) until our supercharges start to generate boost at the higher rpms.

Mike K

57FordGuy
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Since we last exchanged information, I obtained "Practical gas flow by John Dalton" and "Supercharged! - Design, testing and installation of supercharger systems" by Corky Bell.  I am waiting for some backordered books about exhaust tuning.

One thing starting to emerge from this research is that exhaust requirements for supercharged engines are not the same as for regularly aspirated engines.  Most of the info out there does not apply to supercharged engines.  The book by Corky Bell provides a lot of formulas, which when I compare them to the results of published dyno tests in some of the magazines, including Y-Block Magazine, appear to work fairly well.  In general, the advice about supercharged engines is that bigger is better, but when you start crunching numbers, the objective with the header primaries is to make them big enough that rate of gas flow does not exceed about 250 fps.

Ted Eaton, earlier in this thread, reported good results on a drag racing application with 2-inch primaries.  In a detailed conversation with Jerry Christenson, he thought 2-inch primaries would be big enough on a supercharged, 331 cid Y-block with ported heads.  Gord McMillan has got good results with 1-5/8 primaries on mildly boosted engines like I propose and did not think I should go bigger than 2-inch on the primaries and 2-1/2 on the collector and tailpipe because I might loose low end torque.

When I worked through all the formulae in the book by Corky Bell, the results indicate that for my application, 2-inch primaries are what I should use for the predicted exhaust gas flow under boost at maximum rpm.  As Ted Eaton pointed out, these designs are unique for each engine, so what applies to my engine may not apply to another.

Based on the foregoing considerations, my header design should be simple, right?  Well.....maybe not.  I am using a centrifugal supercharger which does not even begin to make boost until 3200 rpm and peaks at 6200 rpm.  Accordingly, the engine may act more like a normally aspirated engine until boost starts to come up.  The question is, how much effect does the header design have at the lower rpm's?  Some of the stuff I am reading says none at all, just get rid of all the back pressure, other stuff says low and mid-range torque will be effected by header design.

Here is what I see emerging for my application.  First, the cam design will have the most influence over torque and the range of rpm where maximum torque occurs.  I am not sure to what extent the historic experience offered about header influence on torque may have been influenced by cam design.  Secondly, if I do not have any backpressure or it is less than 0.5 psi in my exhaust, I don't see wave forms and exhaust gas inertia having all that much effect, in other words, if the pressure stays so low as to be hard to measure, that indicates that gas inertia and waves in the exhaust gas are not interfering with the exhaust process.  However, thirdly, part of the exhaust gas theory is to try to create a negative pressure at the exhaust port just as the valve opens.  Accordly, low measurements on a pressure gage don't mean zip if you are trying to measure a negative pressure, so the pulse and scavenging theories may have some value, particularly at no boost or low boost.  Fourth, (and I am waiting for some back ordered info on this), the length of the header primaries effects the rpm range where the torque occurs, assuming the pipe diameter is matched to the gas flow.

In summary, it looks like 2-inch primaries are big enough for my supercharged y-block.  The cam design will be a lot more important than anything else.  I will still design the header primary pipe lengths to maximize low to mid-range torque, so far as the exhaust goes, recognizing that the supercharger will have more effect than anything at the higher rpm where boost increases.  The latter principle will also apply to the cam design, it does not have to be too radical for the supercharger to do its job, so long as I have been paying attention to maximizing airflow through the head.

That is about the extent of my progress on this question to date and I appreciate all the input you folks have provided on this.  If I learn anything more, I will add it to the thread.

Mike K

57FordGuy
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Frank,

Wow! If I remember some of the stuff I have read about the F-code setup, you are exceeding stock performance by quite a few horsepower.  Do you think a guy could duplicate your performance using an e-code repro?

I have a couple of cars besides the current Fairlane 500 for this blower project.  One is a Custom 300 with a 3-speed and overdrive powered by a 312 that my brother rebuilt in about 1969 or 1970.  I don't know what he put in it, but it is probably a good engine to rebuild again.  Back then, we were always told not to bore over more than 0.060 inches, so our blocks are still generally good if the main bearing webs aren't cracked.  I don't know the rear end either, but assume it is stock.  I bought the Custom in 1966 for $127 when I bent up both doors on my Fairlane 500 and was crawling in and out of the windows.  I drove the thing from Montana to California and then up to Seattle before giving it to my brother when I got a 57 wagon which I also still have.  It has a 4.10 or 4.11 rear end and a thee-speed and overdrive.

I have two or three e-code manifolds, but only one set of really decent tea pot carbs that I have on an Edelbrock 257 manifold on my brother's old convertible.  I was thinking that I might come close to the type of performance you describe above if I use the Edelbrock 257 manifold or port out an e-code manifold.  I could also make life simple and put a good modern carb on one of the Blue Thunder manifolds from John Mummert.

All my heads are 57 312 heads so I will be dealing with relatively high compression, depending on how I build the motor.  In the late 60s and early 70s, we put in domed pistons with high compression and added aviation gas to the fuel.  Those y-blocks would tear the splines off a normal 3-speed Ford transmission, but worked good with a top loader.  I have no idea what horsepower they made, but they were pretty ferocious and would beat most of the cars in that era, including some of the 409 Chevy Corvetts.  We used either stock exhaust manifolds or Hooker Headers.  I still have one set of the Hooker headers on a 312 in a convertable.

Our engines tended to blow up fairly early in their life, but we weren't babying them.  The main problems were thrown push rods and scuffed cylinder walls and cracked rings from the aluminum pistons heating up (as well as from detonation if we tuned them wrong) plus burnt valves because we could not afford stainless valves or stelite or stainless valve seats.  When we weren't adding av gas, we added a little diesel or kerosone to the fuel to keep them from knocking.  We probably did not have enough expertise to know how to build those motors properly, but they would work good for quite awhile considering how hard we used them.  I am not sure what kind of compression we can run now with today's gas, so that will be another area of inquiry from guys like you when I get this first project done.

I don't know if my 312 heads are posted or not because I haven't had them off the cars for 40 years and didn't know posts existed back when I worked on them.  If I ever get this blower project done, the next one will probably be to fix up the Custom 300 as an e-code repro and see what kind of performance I can get using either some tea pots or some of the WCFB's I have.  The latter are in very bad shape and not the original dual quad setups, but have the small carb base for a Y-block intake.  These are all thoughts for the future.  I need to concentrate on the blower project right now but want to try a normally aspirated engine project in the future.

Mike K

57FordGuy
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Ted and all:

This is just what I wanted to hear about a dyno.  I been told some horror stories about trying to use dyno shops that really don't know what they are doing, but suspected that exactly what Ted is saying was possible.  I have always wanted to use a dyno, but never had the money or place to do it.  I need to get my engine together and do some long-range planning.

I appreciate the comment about sonic testing.  It is essentially a standard procedure at the machine shop I use.  They are really big block Chevy guys with one guy who has Y-block experience.  They quietly turn out racing engines for a lot of guys in this region and typically work on $65,000 to $100,000 engines.  They have some funny ideas about timing older engines retrofitted with a blower (they think blowers make engines run hot, so keep retarding the timing and locking it in with no advance capability in order to prevent detonation - gee, I wonder why they run hot), but they do very good machine work.  I go to another shop for grinding the cranks so they don't grind off the oil slinger with oversized hones.

I will try to start assembling an engine while proceeding with my house, just as soon as I get a roof on things including the garage.  I have the crank ground and the heads ported, but no work done on the block, decking the heads, ordering pistons, or anything else, other than piling the bearings and h-beam rods in a box with the block.  I guess I had better at least order some more parts to add to the pile and finish my research on the cam.

Thanks for the ongoing tips, comments, and advice.  I will keep you posted about my progress in the future, with the goal of doing some dyno testing before finishing this project.

I am finishing a big project at work and then off to Arizona next week for another project, so may not be in communication for a week or two.  If I don't reply to anything on this forum, it is not for lack of interest, but because I am tied up on other stuff for awhile.

Mike K

pegleg
Posted 16 Years Ago
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Alan,

        No, just a list of the good and the bad. If, like Ted, I had a dyno in my back yard, it'd be busy.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 




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