cool, I learned some more stuff here.



Always used a putty knife or razor blade, but didn't know about the combustion chamber edge thing.

gots to be exxxxtra careful with my new aluminum heads.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Why would Dennis Mind? thats job security for him.

I would not use those disc on any flat mating surface, I have many scalpel sets around and razor blade scrapers made for that task. Although I use those disc for buffing welds smooth. I have dissassembled many items where gaskets were not available, so prior to separating the parts I go on each side of the gasket with a narrow pointed scalpel and make sure the gasket is free prior to separating the parts, I have saved many gaskets this way and if I am too lazy to make a new one I just coat the old gasket by rubbing it between my fingers with Motor honey, STP or similar product, that way it has a good seal and will not be stuck next time you need to take it apart.

In making gaskets, if you do not have the proper hole punches and are working with tiny carb orifice holes and whatnot, you find some small tubing the correct size, install it in a drill and sharpen the end with a file. A round file or reamer and sharpen from inside works best but a flat file from outside may get you by but when you punch the hole it may tend to spread the gasket with the taper of the end. The scalpels work great for the bigger odd shape cuts. Always stone the surfaces flat if possible before reassmbly.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

mctim64 (1/10/2009)

---

Took me a minute, you are a plumber. I get it!

    Tim, If you ever saw the sign on the side of his truck  "Leeking Plumbing" you wouldn't forget it!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Daniel,

it is good to take the "sharp" edge off the combustion chamber to prevent detonation, but what I was talking about here is the gradual roll that you can see when a strait edge is laid across the deck surface and slip a feeler gauge between the chambers. That's not good for holding a gasket.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Took me a minute, you are a plumber. I get it!

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Instructions ?

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Tim,



Your comment re: "rolled combustion chamber edges" got me thinking. I had heard that when grinding/polishing chambers, the sharp edges left from milling should be smoothed to prevent pre-ignition/detonation. Sounds like a delicate compromise is warranted?



Your opinion?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I've never used them. Now I may be glad I haven't. However, I wonder how many people read and follow the instructions. It would be interesting to see if the same poor results occur when the instructions are followed exactly. Don't push down on the disc, use a 2 to 5 degree angle, do not continue to abrade once the gasket has been removed, never use coarse discs, etc.


Lawrenceville, GA

I never used the disk method of gasket removal until my trusted (formerly trusted) mechanic showed me how easy the disk made the task.  This last set of heads I removed had been cleaned of material with die grinder, by me.  I noted a number of areas on the head's deck surface that the gasket apparently hadnt sealed, and wondered why.  Now I know.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I have been telling My customers for years to throw these things in the craper.





Tim, don't do that, that just creates a whole 'nuther set of problems.

  Dennis in Lititz PA