Carb kits are resonably easy to install if just taking care to remember where the small parts go.  The manual Mark mentions will definitely be of assistance for first timers.  Just be sure to clean all the carb components thoroughly before reassembly though.  The spray carb cleaner with the tube installed on the nozzle works well for this.  And insure that the primary and secondary metering blocks go back in their respective positions on the carb.  Check the flat surfaces with a straight edge to insure that warpage is not present.  Minimizing the amount of time between tear down and reassembly also helps.  Don’t tear the carb down one day and put it together the next especially if you’re unfamiliar with a particular carb.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hey Nat;   YOU CAN DO IT!!!!    WE WILL HELP!!!  go for it     God Bless and good luck   Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Hello Nat,Reading your previous post.The fact that you can turn both idle mixture screws in and it will continue to run means its getting fuel somewhere besides the idle circuit of the carb.Both idle screws in should make it shutoff.If you are interested in going through the carb yourself I have the Holley manual for that carb.Tells everything about the carb as well as a fully illustrated overhaul procedure.Issued by Holley in Aug.56 as an aid to dealers who were going to be dealing with these "new" carburetors.1957 was the first year they were in use.If you want a copy I can send you one if you email me your address.oldcarmark@hotmail.com.

  

Thanks Pete. I know the floats are the proper level now. When I got the carb back after 4 return trips, I checked the floats because the adjusting the screws did little. When I removed the sight hole screw on the front, a steady flow of fuel came out. On the rear the fuel gushed out. He said he adjusted the floats to Holley Spec. In my fury I took the bowls off myself and adjusted them myself. When I remove the screws now, nothing comes out. If anything there are probably a bit on the low side. If I got the kit how difficult is it to do the work myself?



thanks

Nat

  I was just looking in the 1957 Ford shop manuel for info on your Holley. Your carb has TWO power valves a primary 8.5 inch of vacuum to open and a secondary that opens at 10.5 inch. The idle mixture needles are turned IN to lean the fuel mixture and OUT to increase mixture richness. Preliminary setting is full in to JUST touch then out ONE turn. Your rich condition is a float level, BLOWN power valve(one of TWO) or dirt in an air bleed passage. KEEP your present carb and GET A NEW MECHANIC. This is a very simple carb and if the guy can`t fix it by now find another guy to work on it. Pete

The heat riser moves freely. I spoke to A Holley rep. He suggested the 1848 4160 Carb 465 CFM.



thanks

Hello Nat,Just a suggestion on something to check.Does yours still have the heat riser valve in the right side manifold?Is it opening fully or is it stuck halfway closed?Does it move freely by hand.This would also give you a lot of soot out the tailpipe if its not moving freely..By the way on my 8007 carb turning clockwise "in"on the idle mix screws leans the idle mixture.

  

You might want to recheck your rebuild, Holley's don't adj. the idle in the same way other carbs do, when you turn the screw in they go Rich, out they go lean. This is because you are opening an airbleed, this airbleed could have been plugged during the rebuild and give a rich idle all the time. Another thing could be the metering block gasket, there are several different one and the wrong one could cause a problem. It sounds like you have everything set right, although I like 10* initial advance, so I would concentrate on the carb.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Hey guys thanks for the input.

I bought the car three years ago. It originally ran poorly - it was choking on its fuel. My mechanic tried to adjust the mixture screws and it did nothing. He then adjusted floats (they were very high) then he was able to adjust the mixture screws with great results. The car ran great. When I pulled plugs for cleaning they always had a grey powdery residue which suggests proper combustion.

At the beginning of last summer the performance suddenly got worse and the car would not idle when I got to a stop light. I would have to gently pump the accelerator to keep it running. Adjusting the idle mixture screws did nothing.

It was determined that the carb needed a rebuild.

Since it was rebuilt it runs very rich-plugs are sooty and a heavy rich exhaust smell. I have by-passed the choke. I have set the choke on lean with the choke plate wide open. I pump it 3 times and it fires up instantly even after sitting for a length of time. For the first 3 or 4 minutes I get a heavy black powdery sooty residue coming out the exhaust and eventually clears up. The strong rich smell remains. I get about 30 miles less to a tank full. Plugs are always black. When I adjust the left idle mixture the car will stall when I turn the screw in which is I believe is normal. When I turn the right one the car will run rough but will not stall. The carb is an original 4150 (410 CFM) - 6.5 Power Valve. I am running the ignitor ignition with a Flamethrower coil. Spark plugs gapped at .044. Vaccum reading done last summer was 17. The timing is set at 6˚ BTDC. Ignition wires, plugs, cap, coil and rotor are new. I am not running a PCV. I run midgrade fuel. I did notice a couple of weeks ago the level of the fuel in the bowl had dropped down to the bottom of the filter. I don’t know if that means anything. I hope this helps.



Thanks everyone.

Well he hasn't confirmed it, but maybe the leaky fuel pump was causing his rich mixture- especially if he's got a pcv going as Mr. Hurricane said. (he DID end his last post with a smiley face you know...suggesting resolution to the problem)



Steve B

Oakland, CA