Merv: I think a lack of answers is just bad luck or timing. It happens sometimes. I think you needed a voltage reducer, but re read the other postings & maybe it will be clearer..

Paul

Peeeot:

You are correct, change the pressed-in bushing to the 1/4" pipe one, or use a pipe bushing in the existing hole.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Whoops. ECG is a 272.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Uh-oh!  Should've known better than to assume anything of the sort.  Block is ECG-A, heads are ECG-C.  Looks like I have '55 272 block and heads with some other 2-bbl intake and a correct carb.

Ford-y-block.com didn't reference an ECG-A block; can anyone confirm if that's a 1955 272?  It said ECG was for '55-'57 272s I think.

1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive

Hoosier Hurricane,  I think I missed your post somehow before I responded.  I had assumed that everything under the hood was original, given that the car was owned by one man.  The only component I've checked numbers on is the carburetor, which is a correct number for the application.  Perhaps I should double check the numbers on the heads and block to see if they are correct as well.

I looked on Mac's Antique Auto Parts web site and saw the exact unit I have installed, which, as you surmised, is meant for a 1956 vehicle.

If I'm understanding correctly, there is a pressed in bushing with threads adapted for the current sending unit.  I need to either remove the bushing and replace it with one for the correct sending unit, or else use a thread adapter that matches the 3/8 thread on the outside and the 1/4 thread on the inside.  Is that correct?

1954 Crestline Victoria 312 4-bbl, 3-speed overdrive

Mike.  Sounds like this is an itch that needs scratching.  Take this as constructive criticism which can also apply to everyone.  No knocked heads here but you’ve attached your question to a post that was already in another train of thought even though it was temperature sensor related.  Asking your specific question in a brand new post instead of ‘hi-jacking’ an existing thread would have been more applicable in this instance but hi-jacking does seems to be a way of life in many forums.  I’m guilty myself in responding to some of these hi-jacked posts but for the most part there’s no harm actually being done other the post deviating from its original topic and potentially making a post several pages long.  This in turn makes it difficult for someone using the search function to weed their way through several pages of a post that jumps around in the topic materal in order to find the pertinent information.

 

But regarding your own question, you’ve posted a problem that has a myriad of possibilities without much detail on what has or has not already been checked.  More information up front will get more responses.  Heed Toms and Pauls recommendations as both scenarios are valid.  I’ll add that an ohm check or continuity test on the sending unit itself will help to determine if the sending unit itself is dead in the water.  If the sensor shows to be ‘open’ then replacement of that would be at the top of the list.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Mike - It sounds like you got the 56 sending unit, which may not be compatible with the 54 gauge. In my 54 Ford, I used the 54 sender and the stock gauge and used one of those Ford gauge voltage reducers (not the correct name for it) and my gauges (temp and gas) work okay. I don't use the stock volt/amp and oil pressure lights.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Don't know if I  have knocked heads on here or what- but I never get much for answers like some say to the Newbies that you can certainly get all of them here.  Maybe my posts have nothing to do with Hopp'n up the Y-block with certain heads or whatever.. I love the Y as all of you do but I am not interested in getting more power out of it. I am 60 and gone past that stage.  I want to preserve it the way it was, & got on this site to connect with other Y-blockers & find some common ground on restoring them, but usually my posts are dead ended........ Mike

     

My temperature Gauge stopped working months after I switched my system to 12 volts. Did I burn out the sensor or the gauge? It reads hot all the time. It was the only problem I had with the conversion.  I did buy a sensor on ebay  that is supposed to be 12v. It does have the 2 terminals on it & I believe the same threads...........   Mike 

     

Wrong - As was stated above, Ford used 6 volt gauges in 1959 cars. Ford used, for lack of the correct terminology, a voltage reducer for the 6 volt gauges. If you don't have the sender unit with 1/4 pipe threads and the threaded stud, you probably have the wrong one as I think they used these after 56. I know it is correct for a 57.



Also as stated above, the TBird parts suppliers have the bushing for the correct sender. You can make a tool to remove the one that is in there now or buy the special tool for removal. If you have the hole for the 3/8 sender, you can usually find a reducer bushing at a hardware store or a parts store.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ