Passenger car 1956 Merc Y-Block, going in a 32 frame, being built to run at Bonneville, Maxton, etc.   I plan to bolt it up to a TH400 trans, 8.8 Ford Explorere rear end, 4 inch dropped front axle (Superbell), and a transeverse rear leaf set up.  4 wheel discs all around.

I can figure this out, but might was well ask:  how far back from the front x-member is your harmonic balancer?  How tall does your block sit on/in the frame?  3 degrees nose up, then go from there, right?

I have the 2 bolt holes on each side of the block, which are for the motor mounts. If I build rigid mounts, I do not need steady rests, correct?

My deuce frame has some SBC 350 motor mount tabs, which look good, I'm jsut not sure I can adapt them to fit my Merc.

I can keep the stock passenger car oil pan, and build a Flathead style biscuit mount, right? No changes required?

I HEARD that small block Ford (302) and SBC (350 motor mounts are very similar. Can they be used? Anyone done it and have pics?   I'm still learning, and don't have the skills or talent required to reinvent the wheel.  Yet.

TH400 to '56 Y-block adapter.  O'Rielleys sells the for around $250, and Wilcap sells them for around $500.  What's the difference?

Well, that's about it for now, thanks in advance.  I searched my tail off, to the point that my wife got mad at me, and I was cross-eyed.  Thanks again, JL

 

1932 FORD ROADSTER ('GLASS)
1956 MERCURY 292 Y-BLOCK
D/STR
NAVARRE, FL

http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/blue-32-03.html

Hope this gives you an idea about putting Y to 32 frame.

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

You seem to have got most of it figured out. Try this site. You'll get more responses in a day than you'll get here in a month.



http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=5



Register, do an introduction and then copy and paste your question from here to there.


Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

I have often considered swapping a flathead v8 into my wife's Model A. If I did, I would probably want to use the 53 truck flathead bellhousing and front motor mount. The concept is to put the side mounts (that are on the bellhousing) in line with the firewall so that the torque of the engine is applied to the frame at a point there there is maximum resistance. The body of the car acts as a brace to stiffen the frame. I think the original Model A engine is also mounted this way.



I think this is the design technique that's used in the truck y-blocks, especially the F100's. The front of the engine rests on a front mount that's centered under the crankshaft, and all of the torque of the engine is applied via the bellhousing. The front of the cab is well mounted to the frame.



This also allows the front of the truck frame to be flexible and act as part of the suspension. And I think the Model A was also designed this way. I know I've seen promotional films of the Model A demonstrating its ability to traverse extremely rough terrain and watching the entire frame twist one way, then the other as it goes over rough roads. Of course, the torque of Model A engines was transmitted via the torque tube.



This isn't done in Ford cars because engine noise, harshness, and vibration would be transmitted to the interior of the car body. By having the engine mounts farther forward, less NHV is transmitted to the body.



If your frame is boxed, then side engine mounts will work ok.




Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

JL,

What a great project.  You will have lots of interested spectators asking questions and have that puzzled look in their eyes.  At least 9 out of 10 landspeed roadsters use sbc.

I race at Maxton, El Mirage and Bonneville with a Y-Block in a F100 and it would be great to see you there.  Do you have the rule books yet?  The 2009 issue for Bonneville is just about ready.  You can purchase it online at www.scta-bni.org.  The Maxton rule book is similar, but needed.  It is available at www.ecta-lsr.com.  You mentioned that you have researched quite a bit so you may have these sites memorized by now.  Reading these books cover-to-cover is a must to save you countless headaches trying to determine the class and tech requirements.  

I have no experience with roadsters or coupes, but the engine mounting is one I have struggled with.  I use the front truck mount system, but not the truck bellhousing rear mount as I use a passenger car bell.  If I could have made it work, I would have just used the side mounts along with the transmission mount.  If you can use the side mounts (and clear headers-should be easy), along with the trans mount, you will not need the steady rest.  My experience at Maxton tells me you need things to move a little.  So rubber mounts may be the answer.  You can call the Maxton people and ask what they think.  At any rate, you will need a very functional suspension system as the track is not as smooth as you might think.  Bonneville is different.  I see solid engine mounts and most times no suspension systems at all in the rear with little or no suspension in the front.

Sounds like you are going to have an exciting time ahead of you.  Keep us posted with updates in the racing section of the forum.

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)



BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

I actually think the hamb is where he started, I've seen his posts on there for awhile.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

haha, this is true, I got tired of bumping it, so I came to the experts. 

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it, and love learning about these forgotten engines.

57 Ford PU, I do have the SCTA rulebooks, and am running Flathead style motor mounts, found a good tip on how to do it.  I guess it'll work.  For suspension, I'm running leafs front and back.  Running a glass body, 10 point cage, I heard SCTA was making some changes this year, so I need to look that up before I start bending and welding.  Pretty much, I'm cloning the Tim Cunha Mooneyes Coupe, to give you an idea.  I am sure I'll be contacting you for setup advice in the future.

Anyhow, thanks again everyone, I will see you in here, with more serious questions soon, when I start to build the engine.

1932 FORD ROADSTER ('GLASS)
1956 MERCURY 292 Y-BLOCK
D/STR
NAVARRE, FL

JL,

As a coupe, it will be quite nostalgic.  I don't know Cunha personally and I don't know if you do, but if you need to ask him any technical questions or help with your project you can probably reach him through Mooneyes.  Chico is the "go-to" guy and Bob runs sales at Mooneyes and their number is (562) 944-6311.  You can ask for either one and they would help you get in touch with Tim.  Landspeed racers are a lot like this Y-Block group, they will go way out of their way to help a fellow racer.

Attached is a picture of the Mooneyes Coupe I took in Sept. 07.  Chico and I were in the rookie line at the same time and he was using Tim's coupe to get his license.

Good luck with the project and if there is anything I can do to help, please ask........ 

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)



BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

The post link from Finland is my '32. You can see the custom front cradle, what it doesn't show is the we used a truck bellhousing, and a mount under the T-5 tranny. The front cradle uses the thru bolt mounts you see on a lot of flathead cars. There's no vibration in the car, and no movement of the engine under load. If you google George Poteet and Camel Toe Racing, you'll find his 208mph Bonneville 32 roadster, on the same frame rails (only) we used on my car. Might get some hints from the stance. By the way, while I didn't build the car, I did build the motor, starting with a 56 Merc block, and a lot of parts from Frank Rice, Craig Conley, and John Mummert. There's a local machinist that likes old motors, like J2 Olds and early Hemi's (his own cars).



Being called "junior" is almost as good as being carded at my age.




miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

57 pickup, thanks for the info.  That car makes me get all choked up every time I see it.  I just can't figure out what color to paint mine.  Yellow is taken.  I was thinking Grabber Orange or Grabber Blue.

I pretty much have the engine sitting where I want it, and will attempt to make up the motor mounts this weekend.  Waiting for my trans adapter.  Wilcap has theirs for almost $500, Reillys is selling their for around $300, I hope there is a typo in that figure someplace.  Don't know what the difference is between the two, if any.

Miker, what link were you talking about?  Too much useless crap rettling around my small brain.

Thanks for the help!

1932 FORD ROADSTER ('GLASS)
1956 MERCURY 292 Y-BLOCK
D/STR
NAVARRE, FL