OK, I need some help here. I'm trying to cover my bases here before I tear things apart. Does anyone have a '55-56 Ford transmission laying around that you can measure the diameter of the input shaft where it goes in the pilot bushing. How about the diameter of the input shaft where the splines are. The length of the input shaft from the end to the transmission case. I can find out all of this stuff when I get mine out but I'd rather have it done before I start so I can get the parts before I tear things down to shorten the down time. Another thing. I plan to bypass the governor so do I still have to have an overdrive relay? I under stand the solenoid used a different voltage to hold it in overdrive than it does to get it in and out of overdrive. Any help along these lines would be appreciated.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Relay allows the use of cheaper control switches/wiring. OD solenoid draws a lot of current. Even the lighter holding coil might pull enough juice to eventually fry a toggle switch (?).



P.S. An interesting point: Since the solenoid mounts at an angle, it is possible that when installed with the drain hole up, a leaky seal might allow trans. oil to reach a level that could cause malfunction of the internal electrical contacts. Even if drain hole is pointed down, if it ever gets plugged-up, when the seal starts leaking (inevitable) and the solenoid fills up, OD will usually quit functioning.



I should also point out, that while I did experiment with various custom re-wiring configurations (it can be fun to run through all six gears, especially if you have a higher rear-end ratio and an abundance of HP), and continual free-wheeling CAN save OD wear & tear/annoyance if most driving is in heavy city traffic, I eventually returned to the fully automatic factory configuration. I works fine, and is less trouble in the end.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I have a NOS input shaft for a 56 with a T86 OD in my hand. If you take the front bearing cover off, it will be easier to measure. From the snap ring that holds the bearing it is 5 5/8"

to the tip. The pilot bearing is .675 and the 10 spline shaft is 1". 45 years ago, I always had a toggle switch next to the lockout handle. In those days it was quicker to flip a switch than wait for a kickdown switch and there were times when second/over was just the right gear.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Thanks guys, those dimensions are what I needed. As far as the switch ect, my car never had an overdrive so there is no kickdown switch etc. I ran a T-85 (came with the car) in a '57 and I had a switch to go to OD. It did however have the relay I guess. What does the seal look like under the solenoid? In both transmissions I have there is just a hole that the solenoid shaft goes into. I made a gasket for the solenoid to case thing. Thanks again for the dimensions. Will save me some hassle after I get it tore down.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

EJ:

I have run a toggle switch directly to the overdrive solenoid in one vehicle about 20 years and the other about 40 years.  No switch problem with either one.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

You can eliminate the governor and the OD relay. I also assume that you won't be using the kick down switch. You only need an on/off switch.

The solenoid uses two sets of coils. When you would energize the solenoid via your switch the first coil is the higher amperage coil which handles the engagement process. Once engaged there a set of internal contacts which disengages the primary coil and activates a secondary coil which draws much less current. It's function is to hold the solenoid in the engaged position.

Hope this helps.

Jeff

Jeff Petersen

Thanks guys. This is exactly the info I needed. I really appreciate the responses on here. When one needs help you have no idea how good it is to get it from those who know. Thanks again ..

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

I don't think there ever was a gasket between the solenoid body flange and trans. case, as it came from the factory (?). The shaft seal that goes in the trans. opening (stepped/shouldered o-ring), and the shaft seal in the solenoid body look very similar. Don't know if they are the same part #(7693), but it IS still readily available from T-Bird catalogs. A flange gasket might be rather redundant if the trans. seal is missing, since if the seal in the solenoid is bad, oil will just run out of the solenoid drain hole. The shaft seal in the trans. is easy to replace. You have to turn the solenoid 90 degrees to release it from the pawl. Just have a 1/4" dowel ready to plug the hole (to avoid fluid loss). Also, watch out for NOS units where the shaft is assembled 180 degrees incorrectly (unit won't fit on trans.).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

OK, I may have to look into this. I don't remember seeing a hold in the solenoid. I also don't remember seeing a seal in the hole where the solenoid shaft goes into the transmission. I'll check all of this out. Oh yeah, I know how to get the solenoid out. I only did it about a thousand times during my ordeal. I'll check into all of this stuff.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

There is an o-ring that goes into the adapter housing. The od is the size of the hole, and the id is the size of the solenoid shaft. They come on Borg Warner gasket kits. I bought some after market gasket sets on eBay recently. I haven't looked to see if the o-ring is in there.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas