Glen,

        Use my cell number. I'm on the road a lot lately as Rebop is not paying the bills.

                    574 370-5726

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Glen.  Titanium stuff is usually reserved for the all out race applications and not for the street but would assume it’s more of a cost thing versus a wear issue.  But I'm always leary of used parts in a race engine so just be cautious in that regard.  Lash caps are a prerequisite when using titanium valves or that flaking issue that John mentions will come to the forefront anyhow where the rocker arms make contact at the tips of the valve stems.  Titanium valves are likely overkill in a Y considering that a 7000+ rpm capability is already there with heavier than stock stainless valves and the right valve spring combination.  But don’t let me be the one to talk you out of doing it as I’ve done things like this simply because the parts were laying loose and just begging to be used.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks, Tim and John, thats about what I thought, I picked these up at a swap meet for not much money. I have the stanless valves in my G heads with 427 springs and 429 retainers. See John I have learned a few things from you. I will probably go with the same in these low compression heads. I picked up a Custom 70A out in TX just before Christmas and could not make up my mine what I wanted to do with it, until this VR 57 just sort of fell in my lap. Can't wait until it gets here to see what I have. I know that the pass mount and the head unit is there, but the guy was not sure he still had the crank pulley and other small parts. It was pulled off by his son in the early ninties and was boxed and placed on a shelf until Jan of this year.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Glen:

I'll stick my nose in here.  I used to work at a forge shop that makes the Manley one piece valve extrusions.  I don't know if Del West are one piece or welded, but anyway, titanium is extrememly hard to machine.  Takes slow speed and LOTS of coolant to keep it from instantly work hardening and ruining your tool bit.  Cut them to length with a wet chop saw with LOTS of coolant to keep from hardening the tips to the point they will flake.  Oh yes, the cutoff wheels are a different material for titanium than for steel alloys.  Good luck with your project.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Glen,

it is possible, but I don't know if it is worth the effort. Charlie had a set of these and the thought crossed our minds, but then heard somewhere that these used NASCAR valves were good at dropping heads.  I like to use SI Industries stainless valves  1.6" ex and 1.94" in, these are the same as Mummert sells in sets.

Let's see what Ted has to say.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Ted or Tim, I have acquired a set of Del West titanium exhaust valves form a scrub racing buddy. They are 1.65 but the stem is about 1/2" llonger that a stock Y block valve. My question is can they be shortend and new retainer key groves cut and if so is this economically feasiable and would the weight reduction be worth the expenditure? I have a plan that requires enlarging the exhaust valves and this is one option that I have. Your thoughts and comments will be welcomed. I'll let everyone in on the plans within the next week or two, just have to wait on some parts that I bought to arrive. A hint, the plans involve a VR 57. Frank you will be involved too, I tried to call you last week but got your voice mail, I'll try to call you later this week after I see what arrives UPS. I know I'll need a crank pulley

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL