I'm getting ready to re ring my 292 I have all my parts. But i'm a bit nervous about honing the cylinder. I've never done this before. It seems like this is one of the most important steps yet everyone has their own way to do it. So i'm asking the engine builders out there for tips and tricks for honing cylinders and seating rings.

What i was planning. I have an adjustable hone that looks similar to a 3 jaw puller that's spring loaded and has 3 bar shaped honing stones. I was told this was ideal for a used bore. But that the "dingle ball" stones were preferable for a fresh bore.

I was told to use wd-40 to lube the cylinder as I use a slow moving electric drill and hone tool to remove glaze and create score marks that are at roughly 45 degrees to the deck.

Then scrub the cylinder with a nylon brush and soapy water. Rinse clean.

Before assembly coat bearings cylinder, piston and rings with assembly lube. place rubber hose over threads on the rod's studs to protect cylinder and install piston into cylinder with ring compressor tool using a handle of a screwdriver and hammer to tap in piston.

Finish installing rod using torque spec (which I have the y block book for) and I've got it from there.

Sound about right?

I won't comment about honing, but regarding the 'hose over the rod bolts'..., I haven't found a hose that thin enough to work. What I have are little plastic booties that slip over the rod bolts. Maybe your local parts store can help you with that.



Use ZDDP as a lubricant for your cam.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

Hello: I have had good luck by going onto YOUTUBE and watching videos of things like cylinder honing, engine building, ignition trouble shooting. Give it a try. Pete

lol, i just did that youtube search. i think i got this...

The rubber hose also helps keep from dinging your crank journals, don't ask how I know that one......

Go to the hardware store. You should be able to find some vinyl hose that will work as bolt protectors.


Lawrenceville, GA

Hone your cylinders with 220-grit stones, at a quick pace (about 300-rpm), and go up and down creating a 45* angle.  All these factors are important.
220-grit stones breaks the glaze and places a very nice cross-hatch.  I use kerosene or diesel fuel for keeping the iron in suspension, so the stones don't load up.  While you are running the hone up and down, have a buddy pour liberal amounts of kerosene on the hone & cyl.
The cross-hatch angle is important.  Too shallow of cross-hatch causes piston rings to spin, so co-ordinate your drill speed with your up/down motion.

For rod bolt sleeves, I use some old 3/8" kitchen sink tube, you know, that see-through braided vinyl stuff?  I cut two lengths about three inches long, and slit their length.  When you slide them over the bolts, the slit will open up slightly.  Face the slit opposite the crankshaft, and it will go just fine.  Galling or nicking the crank is a real problem if you rotate the nick inside a fresh tin-plated bearing.  If you happen to nick the crank, carefully stone it out by hand, and be careful not to do it again.  Hope this helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected