I installed a "B" manifold and had a stat housing leaking.Replaced the housing with a NOS one.Still getting seepage around the top edge.i have tried 3 times with different gasket material and checked the flatness on mating surface of the manifold.Now after having a look at the manifold I took off I can see that the machined surface where the housing bolts to on my replacement manifold is VERY narrow at the top edge and this is where it is seeping.Has anyone else run across this problem?I thought maybe using the coldweld kits you can buy to try and buildup the area at the top edge where it is too narrow.

  

A skim coat of silicone on the gasket might do it. I'd try to avoid JB weld and such. It will be so easy for it to come loose and cause problems in that area, if not properly applied.


Lawrenceville, GA

Like Charlie, I use a thin coat of hi-temp copper silicone on both sides of the gasket. I have used two gaskets at times when it was really giving me a problem.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Hi Paul,Thanks for the suggestion.Judging by your answer this sounds like this is not an uncommon problem with these motors?

  

I have used a belt grinder to level the surface of the housing a bit. Mainly you just want to make a pass on the sander and see if all is flush! Don't take off much or it will get too thin. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks Chuck.The housing is flat.My problem is the machined area on the manifold is not uniform width around the area above the stat opening in manifold.It almost looks like someone pried around that part to maybe get a housing off and chipped a piece of the machined area.Now its thin and hard to get it to seal.I am going to try the copper silicone.Thanks for everyones help.

  

Hope that works. I guess if you ever have the manifold off you could hit it on a belt grinder to smooth it a bit. Silicone does wonders though! Hope you get it cured! I know I'll start a discussion but for a small seepage a little stop leak in the radiator may work. Just don't use much as it can restrict passages in the radiator. I've also had luck in an emergency using coarse ground pepper to seal up a leak. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Hello Paul,I picked up a tube of the copper silicone.Reading the instructions(always a good idea)it says coat the parts to be assembled and then tighten finger tight until silicone just starts to ooze out.Let sit for an hour and then tighten one to one and a half turns.Would you agree with this or do you assemble and tighten right away?Any tips because hopefully this is the last time it comes apart.

  

I've always coated the gasket (both sides) and immediately tightened. Either way would work.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I understand (?) the military has gone to 100% silicone for motor pool gasket repairs. They bring all parts a tad over finger-tight, and then torque down after the RTV sets. Tightening too soon just squeezes out and thins the gasket material. If mating surfaces are not dead level, you end up with virtually no gasket in some spots.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA