Also make sure that you are putting a 1/4" steel rod through the holes on the bellcrank to align the linkage before you start adjusting the kickdown rod (very first picture in the manual posted herein).  That is crucial to making sure the geometry overall is correct.  If you dont start there, it may never move enough to kickdown.

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Mark:

Comtrol pressure is being changed by changing the rod length, the longer the rod, the more pressure.  Have you checked to see that you get full throttle when you depress the accelerator to the floor?  If anything stops the travel before you get full throttle, you won't have kickdown.  If you get full travel, adjust the rod some more until you get kickdown.  I assume your are looking for kickdown from 3rd to 2nd below 50mph.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Hello John,I have finished the trans service and I have NO leaks.I have been adjusting the linkage as per the Fordo manual.I have the rod 3 turns longer than where it just fits and I have the gas pedal as high as I can adjust it.I still can't get it to kickdown when floored if I try to get into passing gear.The manual warns against adjusting the rod too long or it may cause trans damage.How much longer can I go?2-3 turns more?It does make a big difference in the way it shifts now as opposed to before I adjusted the length.What is being changed as the rod length is adjusted? 

  

Mark:

I just take a hammer and tap the area around the bolt holes back flat, chances are someone sometime has overtightened the bolts and distorted them.  Forgot to answer your other post, I install the gaskets dry.  If you prefer sealer, use it sparingly.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks John!Any tips on reinstalling the pan so it doesn't leak?

  

Mark:

On the models without the vacuum modulator, that rod is referred in manuals as the "throttle pressure rod", and that's what it does, along with the kickdown.  On the modulator equipped trans (came along in the '60s Cruisomatics) the rod is the kickdown rod, as you say.  On those, there is usually an adjustment screw, accessible through the vacuum hose fitting, that can adjust the shifts.

I still use type F or FA fluid, you will get varying opinions on this issue.  Your converter will drain with only one plug out, but it takes longer since the air has to get into the converter through the front pump.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

 pics from shop manual

 pic from shop manual

      

pictures from the shop manual

Hello John,I took the pan off today and pulled one of the drain plugs out of the convertor.Do I need to pull both plugs out or will it drain OK from the one?I see the adjustmen to be done.Won't be hard to do once all the fluid stops dripping.Is there anything else I should check while I have the pan off?When replacing the pan gasket do you put sealant on both sides of the gasket or what is your way of doing this so there are no leaks after?What is your suggestion for fluid type to put back in?I was just reading PF Arcands question.Does that rod not just control the kickdown for when you want to kick it back up one gear?I thought the modulator valve controlled shift points?What year did Ford start with the mod valves? Thanks Mark