The factory connecting rod numbering scheme matches the cylinders.  The fact that the #5 cylinder is the leading cylinder when looking at the blocks on the Flathead V8, LYB engines (317-368), and the Y (239-312) simply clouds the reasoning when looking at the rod numbering from the bottom of the engine but it’s much clearer when examining it from the top.  The FE (332-428), MEL engines (383-462), SBF (221-351W), 385 series (429-460)series, and the Mod motors (4.6-5.4L) all have the #1 cylinder as the most forward in the block which makes the numbering scheme at the rods somewhat easier to follow from the bottom.

 

Looking at Dave’s pictures of the connecting rods, the rod that was restamped as “1” does have the correct “5” already stamped on it which will just have someone forty years from now just scratching their head wondering what was going on.  As an FYI, I haven’t seen a Y yet that was not factory numbered but sometimes it does takes some cleanup on the really grimey engines to spot the stampings.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Tim, I thought of that when I was numbering them, but the pictures save any confusion.  (I was kinda in a hurry trying to beat the Michigan cold.)  Those existing Ford rod numbers have no rhyme or reason.  I guess they were indicating sizes.  Our quality is vastly improved since those days.

John, I stamped them while they were still bolted together so the stress would be minimal.  That's the smallest size stamps I have.  If you look real hard, you can see I did all the main caps too.  At Romeo Engine, we score the caps with an inside parting-line then a big hydraulic machine pulls the cap off the rod (we crack the caps).  That rod and cap are then unique to eachother.  That ensures NO cap movement and they can only mate one way.

I'm all for marking everything for position and direction.  I did my rocker ass'y parts that way and my water pump bolts, too.  Everything goes back in exactly where it was.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I'm happy to see you guys using number stamps of the rods.  I have seen too many rods marked (usually sbc, thankfully) with notches filed in the beam of the rod, usually just above the big end, the most stressed part of the rod.  They don't need additional stress risers in the form of notches.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Hey Dave, just because I'm a little picky, the Y should be numbered from the front of the engine 5-1-6-2-7-3-8-4 not like a chebbie. 

Cheers

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

For the Y, the numbered side of the rod typically just faces to the outside or away from the camshaft.  This also corresponds with the tangs for the bearings also being on the numbered side of the rod.  But when in doubt, always look at the large chamfer in the side of the rod as that will always go against the fillet side or the edge of the rod journal and facing away from the other connecting rod.  If you’ll look closely at the rod bearing as it’s installed in the connecting rod, it’s not centered by design.  The bearings in the Y rods are always positioned away from the edge of the journal so as not to wear against the radius or fillet at the edge of the journal.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Kenny, I can't remember either.  That's why I take pictures (lots of them).

I'd be lost without pictures.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

i stamped the rods. that tells me which rod in which spot. problem is I couldnt remember which way i was standing when i stamped them. thanks for the info. i stuck them in with the oil holetowards the valley.

Kenny  Onalaska, Texas

Hey!  I have actually asked that question too!  I guess now it doesn't seem so stupid.
See that oil hole for the wrist pin (on top of the con rods)?  They all face up, toward the valley cover.  I got smart and stamped all my rods, rod caps, and main caps with a stamp set before removal.
I torque my rod nuts to 45ft/lbs and main bearing bolts to 100 ft/lbs.  BTW, chase the casting threads and use a good moly lube.

Hope this helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

The numbers face the outside of the block.

For stock bolts:

rods 45

mains 95

heads 75

If using Aftermarket bolts, go by the manufacturers recommended torque.


Lawrenceville, GA

hanging my pistons on my rods and forgot which way to turn the rod. Before anybody says it---- big end on crank little end in piston     PS where can I find torque specs for the rods mains heads etc. thanks

Kenny  Onalaska, Texas