Very cool!


Lawrenceville, GA

Boy, this has been a long time on the back burner, but finally got the distributor and oil pump squared away. (too much time working on everyone else's stuff!) In addition to the 12V conversion, I swapped out the old truck distributor (along with the governor lines) with a remanufactured '64 PU 292 distributor. Also, the factory tang drive oil pump was swapped out with a late 50's 312 rebuilt pump (hex drive), both from NAPA. Now for my predicament, the Lincoln block must have a taller deck height than the Ford cousin. The 292/312 oil pump shaft had an overall length of 8.06, much too short for what I needed. The next length Ford has in the .250 hex shaft is for the FE, a 8.50 length. Comparisons of the old vs the new showed I needed a length of 9.25 overall. My first thought was to find some Chrome Moly or 1144 Stress proof in a .25 hex that I could just cut to length and install, no fuss no muss. CM is no longer made in that small a hex, and the 1144 was about $300 for a single piece. Much too rich for my blood. A buddy of mine has a nice machine shop set up at home, and we finally decided to use some A2 tool steel in .438 round, and he machined a 1" long hex on each end of a 9.25 piece and flame hardened the ends ($10 in material). Got it installed today and took the beast out once again to blow the dust off.
 
Note the scaffolding set up, just right for an F7.....
 
 

 
 

 
 

Dave, thanks for posting the connection info on the Mustang alternator, it will come in handy tomorrow as we wire up a 65 Fairlane to get it ready for the strip (in the assembly stage now).

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

I want to say, "just throw them away" but some Ford regulators use these posts as a tie-point, to pick up power for other things (like the horn relay).  Since the regulator will no longer be used, take it & the capacitor (and ground wire) off.

The regulator wires (GND, Field & Armature) going to the old generator: Remove them. They aren't big enough to carry 75-amps.

The regulator's BATTery wire can be spliced to the horn relay.

I do not wish to hijack this thread or bash the 1-wire alternator, but I am a licensed Electrician and a Ford employee of over 35 years.

The correct way to wire, includes a three-wire alternator, and a central tie-point where constant +12-volt wires should connect, including the key switch.  Remember, the key switch feeds your ignition circuit.  A small voltage drop drastically degrades ignition efficiency.  If that happens, the "sense" wire calls for more alternator voltage until it comes up to 14 (at the sense wire).  A 1-wire alt has no "sense" wire.

The stranded copper #6-AWG alternator wire can go to the battery side of the starter relay, or to the battery.  This wire is usually not fused.  Two things play a vital roll:  The wire is in free air, and it is short.  Otherwise, #6 could never safely carry more than 60-amps without overheating.

I also run a #1-AWG welding wire from the bell housing/starter area to the battery neg.  If you need a good ground for your distributor, this area is a good source and it's already connected to the rubber mounted engine.  A good ground like this, will wake up your starter motor.
Dave Dare

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Ok, a couple of more questions. Where can one get the brackets to change from a generator to an alternator without "fabbing" them up? Another thing what do you do with all of the wires that went to the original regulator? Thanks...

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Charlie, the first bracket really didn't give as much adjustability as I'd like.  (that hindsight thing)  It was designed around the belt sized to the original generator.  I wanted to have more options available in case it slings a belt on the road someplace and the size used on the truck wasn't in someone's parts store.  The bracket was bent up on a 2' Diacro press brake, but could as easily have been done in a vise using a hammer.

 

Dave, thanks for the clarification.  Although this truck will have only the basic stuff for electronics, it's nice to be able to compare the features pro/con to make an informed decision.  I didn't find much available in researching the 12v conversions three weeks ago when I started this venture, that's why I thought to start a thread to document it.  Perhaps you could post your conversion in more detail here as well to have a better resource for future use. 

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

Robert, my purpose is to let people know that a GM 1-wire alternator works differently.  It has a unique quirk that most Ford users aren't used to.  As long as that is understood, then, ok!  It's NOT simply a one-wire and you're done (although it looks like it).  In order to eliminate the small "sense" wire that Ford uses, GM made a sacrifice that may play hell with a remote start or other accessories.

Yes, I come from Ford, but I also believe the best part for the application should be considered.  In your case, the Mustang alternator works like you would expect, pumping 14-volts as soon as it starts turning,  but it uses two wires (battery and sense) instead of one.

As long as you know to goose the gas past 1,500 rpm to get your GM alternator going, and you are comfy with that, ok!  Don't forget later on, upon initial start your battery is draining while idling; it doesn't mean the alternator is broken.  That is how the 1-wire must work.

Most non-electrical guys would jump on the GM alternator because it looks so easy.  I don't want anyone to buy one and find out it really isn't what they expected it should be, that's all.  Most places won't take back electrical devices, so it's "buyer beware."

 -  Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Well, you already made the bracket, but why not just get a shorter belt?



How are you forming the offset of that bracket?


Lawrenceville, GA

Paul, I don't think anyone specifically wants to put GM stuff on their Ford, I think in the interest of simplicity, many people are steered that direction for conversions (hook up one wire and you're done).  I know now that Dave has given a pretty concise list and diagram for the Ford applications (Thanks!) it will permit other options.  I have yet to see the article you're  referring to, but perhaps a link would be all the persuasion needed to keep Ford stuff in a Ford 

I got the new alternator belt in, and it placed the alternator just where I wanted it, although the bracket I made is at the end of it's limits (in the end of the slot)  This calls for a another new bracket, just got it painted this evening, will get it installed this weekend. 

Robert

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

1990 Mustang alternator diagram:

Notice the top three BIG BK/O (black with orange) wires that all go to BATTERY?  Ford couldn't run 75-amps through two wires, so they use three.

White w/ Black goes from one plug to the other (for feedback to the regulator).

The third wire LG/R, senses the IGNition switch is on.

Ground is through the aluminum case.

If you want to copy the picture, RIGHT click on it and choose "Save Target As...".  Then save it to your folder of choice.

Dave Dare

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Do you have the wiring diagram for the Ford alternator? I like the idea of a 3 wire alternator but so far my old generator is workin' just fine.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL