Started the 12v conversion this weekend by picking up a GM 1 wire alternator from the local NAPA store. The first thing I noticed was the late model GM pulley has a slightly wider V groove than the generator pulley. With them both having the same shaft diameter, the first change was to install the 1952 Fomoco pulley on the alternator. Next, to keep the belts aligned, the rear mounting locations of the pulley were compared to the rear of the mounting bracket location. Although the front face of the generator is recessed, this was the same as the thickness of the mounting bracket, so it was a wash in this case. (generator has mounting bracket on back side of tab, on alternator it mounts in front)  We came up with a difference of 7/16" between the position of the two, so the bracket will need some slight modification to keep the belt positioned.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Prior to cutting the bracket, measurements were taken between the hole c-c for future reference.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
A 1/2-13 hex nut is about perfect for a 7/16" high spacer
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The rear generator bracket is rotated around to pick up the rear of the alternator bolt. The rear bolt is in a water jacket, in case things look a little damp in the pictures. (I got a little damp too!)
 
 

 
 
Looks like a spacer of about 3/4" long will be needed.
 
 

 
 
The lower bolt is slightly off, and positions the alternator a bit too close to the engine for my liking.
 
 

 
 

 
 
In the interest of not dismantling the complete engine, an add-on bracket is used.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
And that will be all for this weekend, as I'll need to get a slightly longer V belt now.

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

Your setup looks very nice.  How do you adjust your belt?  Is there a slotted bracket somewhere?
Any alternator works much better than any generator.  With a GM 1-wire, I understand you must rev the engine slightly to get it charging as the alternator doesn't sense the engine is on or off until pulley speed is fast.

I used a 1990 Mustang alternator on my '55 Customline.  My alternator shop changed pulleys for ten bucks, (and he gave my five-groove pulley back to me).  Mustang alternators have a small ignition switch wire which turns the alternator on or off with the key.  It can be attached to the distributor + side.

The Mustang alternator uses the original Y-Block brackets with the addition of one long spacer on top, and a "Z" bracket to the adjustment bracket on the bottom.  As with the original setup, the new alternator belt is fully adjustable.

I don't want to rain on your thread, but check out my retrofit.  It was done years ago.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Thanks for the response!

The factory slotted adjustment is still intact, however as you can see in this picture, the alternator is about against the engine block, and the slot is about out of adjustment.  Not too good for installing and tightening belts.

Looking at the front of the block, it would have been a major undertaking to remove the slotted bracket to prep it for modification, unlike the top front bracket which was held on by only two bolts. 

So my solution was to leave the factory bracket intact, and use this bracket I fabricated:

......to extend the range of the factory slotted bracket and still get the mod done in a day.  It gives me an inch or so of adjustment, and if that is not enough, the center bolt can be removed for even more adjustment.  I did some calculating of belt sizing and alternator positioning on AutoCAD today, so I've got it narrowed down pretty good based on the size that didn't fit yesterday.  So I'll see what they have close to the sizes I came up with.   

I appreciate the input on the Mustang alternator, I was just trying to find something with an internal regulator to eliminate some of the clutter on the firewall.  You don't see much documented on these conversions, so I thought I'd do so in case someone else had similar plans.  This will be my first use of a GM 1 wire, but with a 5 speed Clark trans, a 3 speed White Auxiliary, and tandem 8.50:1 Rockwells, there will be ample opportunity to rev the engine a bit to excite the alternator:

The last conversion to alternator I did was on a 56 panel, 272, and I again used an internal regulated alternator.  I think it was using an early 80's toyota or such P/U, the only mod done to the brackets were to cut off the rear tab on the generator mount and move it forward and weld to hold the back side of the alt.  Belts lined up perfect, I just couldn't remember exactly which alternator it was to use it again....  

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

I'm using a GM 1 wire alternator. I have no problems at all with it. It knows the engine is running when rev'd to about 1500rpm. After that initial rev it puts out 14.4 volts until the engine is shut off. You should have no problems with it. Keep the pictures coming!


Lawrenceville, GA

The beauty in all this is availability and cost.  Junk yards throw scores of good alternators away every day.  All of them are internally regulated.  I would say an average capacity is around 100-amps.  For the cost of changing pulleys and making a couple brackets, the benefit of a modern alt sure beats those 35-amp generators from the past.

Nice job on your retrofit.  You are going in the right direction converting to 12-v.
Six volt components cost twice as much as 12-v (especially car batteries).  Try to find a 6-volt GPS, power inverter to 115vac, cell phone charger, burglar alarm/remote start, stereo CD player, A/C compressor, W/S wipers, etc.

Oh, I forgot to mention: The '90 Mustang alt is internally regulated.  The wires go to Batt POS & NEG, and the key switch.  Pretty much single wire with the addition of the key sw wire.  It also charges immediately upon startup.  Remote Start Systems keep cranking the starter until it sees 14 volts (an indicator your engine is running because the alt is producing power).

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Just for future reference, is there a year range you look for in the Mustang alternators?  V8/V6/4 cyl, or no difference? 

Thanks!

http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/

You get a choice.  The one I like for Y-Blocks is this alternator:
 
It outputs 75-amps, and brushes are under $4.  Here are the applications:

FORD	AEROSTAR	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	BRONCO	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	BRONCO II	(1986 - 1989)
FORD	E-150 ECONOLINE	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	E-150 ECONOLINE CLUB WAGON	(1988 - 1990)
FORD	E-150 ECONOLINE SUPER	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	E-250 ECONOLINE	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	E-250 ECONOLINE CLUB WAGON	(1988 - 1990)
FORD	E-250 ECONOLINE HD	1991
FORD	E-250 ECONOLINE SUPER	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	E-350 ECONOLINE	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	E-350 ECONOLINE SUPER	(1987 - 1991)
FORD	E-350 ECONOLINE SUPER WAGON	(1988 - 1990)
FORD	F-150	(1987 - 1992)
FORD	F-150 SUPER CAB	(1987 - 1992)
FORD	F-250	(1987 - 1994)
FORD	F-250 SUPER CAB	(1987 - 1994)
FORD	F-350	(1987 - 1994)
FORD	F-350 SUPER CAB	(1988 - 1994)
FORD	F-450 SUPER DUTY	(1990 - 1994)
FORD	F53	(1991 - 1994)
FORD	LTD COUNTRY SQUIRE	1986
FORD	LTD CROWN VICTORIA	1986
FORD	MUSTANG COBRA	1993
FORD	MUSTANG GT	(1987 - 1993)
FORD	MUSTANG LX	(1987 - 1993)
FORD	MUSTANG SVT COBRA R	1993
FORD	RANGER	(1986 - 1991)
FORD	RANGER SUPER	(1986 - 1991)
FORD	TEMPO GL	(1984 - 1985)
FORD	TEMPO GLX	(1984 - 1985)
FORD	TEMPO L	(1984 - 1985)
FORD	THUNDERBIRD	(1987 - 1992)
FORD	THUNDERBIRD LX	(1988 - 1993)
FORD	THUNDERBIRD SC	(1989 - 1993)
FORD	THUNDERBIRD SPORT	(1987 - 1988)
LINCOLN	CONTINENTAL	1986
LINCOLN	TOWN CAR	1986
MERCURY	COUGAR LS	(1988 - 1992)
MERCURY	COUGAR XR-7	(1988 - 1993)
MERCURY	GRAND MARQUIS	1986
MERCURY	GRAND MARQUIS COLONY PARK	1986
MERCURY	TOPAZ	(1984 - 1985)

If you like the more modern 130-amp Mustang alternator, here it is:

Notice the fan is on the inside.  Here are the applications:

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I believe on this site or in YBM, there was an article some time back on converting a Y-Block to a 90s Ford Escort alternator. It was fairly straight forward with minimum mods. Seems everybody wants to use G.M. stuff. Why on a Ford? Anyway, in my case, running on a "stock collector plate", an alternator is very obvious, & pushing the rules.

Paul

Do you have the wiring diagram for the Ford alternator? I like the idea of a 3 wire alternator but so far my old generator is workin' just fine.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

1990 Mustang alternator diagram:

Notice the top three BIG BK/O (black with orange) wires that all go to BATTERY?  Ford couldn't run 75-amps through two wires, so they use three.

White w/ Black goes from one plug to the other (for feedback to the regulator).

The third wire LG/R, senses the IGNition switch is on.

Ground is through the aluminum case.

If you want to copy the picture, RIGHT click on it and choose "Save Target As...".  Then save it to your folder of choice.

Dave Dare

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected