With the 55 Tbird body taking shape its time to cart the engine off to machine shop.  After reading lots of posts on the website here are my plans for the engine.  Keep in mind I am not looking to create a race car just a spirited solid driver.

Have engine and components bored, balanced and decked as necessary to start with a nice solid square platform.

Zero deck the pistons

groove block for oil flow in center bearing chase

Add larger valve heads with VITON seals( have found a nice set) would do aluminum but that is for another day since they aren't ready

57 up distributor with Peritronix conversion

Blue Thunder manifold with gaskets that restrict heat passages

FPA headers ( used on my mustangs and great product)

Modern carb with electric choke

PCV dump the road draft tube

Mild street cam (want a little rumble but be drivable)

Roller timing chain

Higher ratio rocker arms (found a very clean original set)

Large flow thermostat 170 to 180 degrees and 7lb cap

electric fan and modified water pump to increase flow (July and August get real hot in Southern Illinois so more cooling the better in my mind)

FMX tranny conversion

Balance tube and 2 inch exhaust

Any parts not used (original tach, fordomatic TPot will go into storage)

Need advice on Cam and any observations on mistakes I am proposing.  Love this website, the best I have ever been on for getting help

Everything you have listed looks good, although I would just groove the center journal on the cam for better oiling to the heads, it can be an expensive mod to groove the block and for the street the cam should do fine. Also I would not run any type of valve seal, I know most people on here like some sort of valve stem seal but with new guides with proper clearance they are not necessary, and it is nice to get a little oil on the stems anyway. I don't run them on my engine and the only thing that smokes is the tires. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

One suggestion that comes to mind;
Use Mctim64's timing chain oiling system by boring a .060 hole in the front cam bearing oil galley behind the cam thrust plate, then cut a small groove in the plate to form a path for the oil.  Notice the fabricated sheet metal oil pan:

Tim and I agree on pressurizing Y-Block rocker shafts to give positive oil pressure to all the rocker arms.  This mod also raises your system's oil pressure.  You may want to consider the same after carefully examining at your original rocker arm shafts.  (Some members choose to leave them the way they came.)  By the way, Dennis Carpenter sells new shafts for $15/ea +s/h.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I forgot to ask, are you building the engine or having it done?

For my 292, I bought a Fel-Pro gasket full gasket set.  Now, I wish I had bought a BEST Full Gasket Set.  They're good quality and much cheaper.  The Fel-Pro set had four sets of intake manifold gaskets, and lots of other redundancies that I really don't need.  That's why the price is higher.

Remember to ask for a BEST set with a neoprene rear seal (instead of the rope).  They might come that way, but I would double-check.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I will have the build done by the machine shop only a few hundred dollars more for them to put it all together and then they warrenty the work.  Aprreciate the suggestions and will talk to the builder about the seal idea.  Any ideas on a good street cam?

Another question that just popped in my head.  Something about valve guides I remember reading about what should I do there.

Rexbd

I"m just gonna throw this out there as some cam information.

I am currently involved in having the 57 Blower cam and ALSO the 1956 Mercury/Ford 260 H.P. cam remade to original specs.

They should be availiable shortly.

I am gonna use the 56 cam in my engine which is very similiar to yours (except mine is a 60 over 312) I assume you are doing the original 292 engine.

Specs on the 56 cam are 300* lift,113 centerline,257 duration.I can give you the valve timing event if interested.

The 57 Blower specs are 290* lift,110 centerline,290 duration.Again I can give you the valve timing event if interested.

I think either will be a fun romp!

Probably $199.00 plus shipping each.You will need good lifters.

Might be of interest to you.

Oldmics

CamCraft in Maryland has a 'Marine' grind with about 113 LSA. I'll have to post the rest of the specs later.



If your block and heads don't already have them, it's probably useful to drill the steam holes in the deck between cylinders 2 and 3 and between 6 and 7.



What block are you using? Be aware of the main cap bolt issues with certain blocks.



Cut slots across the oil holes in the rocker shafts.



Degree the cam.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

I will be using my original 292 block. 

Car is very original though a mess when I bought it. Had been in storage for 30 plus years.

According to a Mercury modification letter that I have,that .060 hole was originally speced as 3/32 and it needs to be drilled on a 45* angle to the surface of the plate.

Oldmics