Wiring is easier than using a generator.

The original three wires came from your voltage regulator (Armature, Field, and Ground).  Eliminate the whole harness.  The generator only put out ~35-amps, now your new alternator puts out 75-105 amps depending on which one you use.

Please examine the diagram from my '90 Mustang, and notice two plugs (C153 & C154). They plug into the side of this (typical Ford) 75-amp alternator. The heavy wires all go to Battery Plus, and the other wire (Light Green w/Red #904) powers your "GEN" light in case you throw a belt.  If you don't have a GEN light, hook this to your Ignition wire, either at the coil +12, or at your key switch. 

 

You can remove your (regulator, short ground jumper, and capacitor).  Connect the old regulator's Batt wire to your horn relay (should be right next to the regulator).  If you extend the new alternator wires, use #6AWG copper wire to your starter solenoid (battery side).  Be sure your engine has a good ground to battery, as close to the starter motor as possible.  Hope this helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

actually i do have a  57 sedan but this question is about my 1960 thunderbird with a 352  thanks for tryin to make sure i get the right info hurricane 

ok would the wiring part of this kit be the same?  i see on the ebay link it says for the 55-57 t-birds with a y-block  ill worry about what mounts and things i need later my main concern is the wiring

57 sedan

60 thunderbird

69 mustang coupe

69 roadrunner

Dave;

Sorry, I failed to re-read his fist post.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

John, I would have but he simply asked where Nat got his kit.  Judging from the original post, I took that to mean, for his '60 T-bird (a very fine car, I might add).

 -  Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Dave:

2X57SEDAN is wanting to change to an alternator on his car, which from his internet name suggests he has a SEDAN.  You should have advised him that the mounting location and pulley location is different between sedans and Birds, and the Casco Kit would probably not fit without alteration.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Nat got his at Casco:

ALTERNATOR INSTALL KIT-12 VOLT

Part# ALTKIT    Description ALTERNATOR INSTALL KIT-12 VOLT    All of the items you need to convert your T-Bird to a modern alternator. With instructions. 12 volt. Info 1 kit/car Year 1956-1957 Pkg KIT Price $206.90

They are also available on eBay with a warranty, and for less money:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Alternator-conversion-for-Y-block-or-55-57-Thunderbirds_W0QQitemZ250425122118QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a4e801d46&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Hope this helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

if you dont mind where did you get the converstion kit?

57 sedan

60 thunderbird

69 mustang coupe

69 roadrunner

He just said he didn't want to use a 1 wire GM setup ...

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

I replaced my alternator on my 57 Bird last summer because of constant generator failures. It was a very easy conversion kit using the stock bracket. I had to swap the some of the wiring connections at the external voltage regulator as to by-pass it. It came with wiring instructions - no cutting of stock wiring. Some guys take out the fender mounted regulator. I left mine in using it as a terminal to hook up the wiring and keeps the original look. The alternator is also black so it does not stand out. It puts out 105 amps. I bought the alternator at Casco. It is about $200.00.

  Me too.  My '55 272 and my '59 292 used the identical brackets.  I didn't cut either one.  To mount it, I bought some threaded rod (SAE not metric) and used a small pipe and two washers as a spacer.  I did add a small "Z" bracket to the bottom bracket, which allowed me to use my original generator belt.  I made the bracket on a vise.  It wasn't hard.

I'm all about going to a junk yard and using inexpensive oem parts, but I always change the "scheduled maintenance" parts before I install.  A new Motorcraft brush holder with new brushes costs under $12.  (Good for another 150,000 miles.)  Everyone has Motorcraft parts.

I thank GM for the 1-wire alt.  Many hotrods were made possible by them.  But the 3-wire Ford (and other brands including GM) alt is much better for your system for a host of reasons.  Please go to this site where it is debated in depth:

One-Wire---Three Wire  You Be the Judge by Mark Hamilton

You don't need fancy conversion kits or wire harnesses with Ford alternators.  Both plugs are usually attached to the alt from the junk yard, or you can buy plug-in's from just about anywhere.  No need to buy anything special.

I used a 75-amp '90 Mustang self-regulating alt, but you can use later models.  The 75 outputs more than plenty for me.  One big concern is, I don't want to pump 100-amps into a dead battery if I leave my lights on overnight away from home.

All the Ford alternators have the same shaft and will accept pulleys from just about any year.  If you don't have one, lookup an alternator shop.  They have hundreds.  My shop charged me $10 to change my pulley and gave the old one back to me.

I believe you saw my pics on the other thread.  Hope this helps.

-  Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected