Mike:

There is a good possibility that the old valve seals have become so hard that they broke up and the pieces are lodged in the oil drain holes at the ends of the heads.  This causes the oil in the heads to build up until it can drain through the pushrod holes.  At this point, the oil level will be above the tops of the valve guides, which causes serious smoking.  When you change the seals, make sure those drains are open.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Once again, the help here is fantastic ! when "airing up" the cylinders I use one of the adapters from my compression tester, however I know I have seen that valve spring compressor on the KD rack, just have to remember where <age sets in>

and yes it is blue smoke, and amazingly enough, when i started it, and took her off choke, idled real smooooooooooth.

Reguards,

Mike, who will someday get to drive this f100

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

Just how long was it sitting? If it was years, you may have stuck rings. I have had engines that weren't started for years to use a lot of oil. I have squirted some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and let it set for a week or so, turn it over and give it another dose. This will dissolve the carbon around the oil rings. Make sure you have the oil out of each cylinder before you put in the plugs. Liquid doesn't compress and you can do severe damage. Is it blue or black smoke. Blue smoke indicates oil. Black comes from pouring in too much fuel.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

There are different schools about valve seals.  I think they are of utmost importance, especially during the operation of an advanced-age valve.  Others argue that new valve stems only have a couple thou clearance (max), which should be tight enough to seal WITHOUT those useless umbrella seals.  To a small degree, I concur.

I prefer my stems to be loose, rather than tight.  My valves never stick from expansion, but they need good quality seals.  I spent money and had all my towers machined to accept viton seals.  I'm not advocating for my way of thinking, it's just something I found to be a great help on other Ford heads and this one is no different.

Can you change seals without pulling your heads using the plug hole?  SURE!
I took an old spark plug, beat the porcelain out, and welded an air hose quick-connect fitting to the end.  Turn the crank just past the Intake Stroke, so both valves are closed in the cylinder you are working on (and the piston is down), then you charge the cylinder with constant compressed air.  Use a spring compressor like this:

It's a K-D, but other companies offer the same style and they are inexpensive.

With ~60 psi of air pushing the valve up, you can easilly break the split keepers loose and remove your springs.  If the air seal breaks, compressed air will push the valve back up and hold it there.  Umbrella seals are right underneath.

Two things:
*  If your valve were 1" in diameter, 60# of air will exert 47# of pressure.  A 2" valve will have 188 pounds pushing up with the same 60-psi.
*  Listen carefully.  You will hear the air escaping past your rings. It's really a different type of "compression check".  If one cylinder sounds a lot louder than the rest, make sure you don't have a burned or bent valve that won't seal.  That may cause a valve to drop.  It's never happened to me, yet (thank God), so use all your senses and be aware of what's going on.  A bent or burned valve is cause to pull the head, anyway.

Hope this helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

So after all the rain and lousey weather i finally prepare for my maiden voyage in the f100 I have been working on. I installed a new Gas Tank, New Fuel Line, and rebuilt the carb, however the carb kit didn't look exact, the power valves or whatever they are called on this ford 2bbl, were different, i left the outside one alone and changed the inside one to the one that appeared close, big mistake, when i shut off the truck, fuel seeps out of the base, and the float and needle are working. Hopefully changing back the power valve will help.

Now for my question: I believe my truck was sitting for a long time, and today was the first true running of the engine. I believe I singlehandidly lowered the mosquito population in NY with the Smoke. It's my first Y block experience, are they notorious for guide seals? not alot of blow by or pressure at the oil fill, so I am not thinking rings. Can the guide seals be replaced without disassembly, with the air in the plug hole method?

I so wanted to take her around the block today,

Mike

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget