I'm just glad you found the problem and didn't have to spend money fixing it, Dan.  I think using premium is a good idea, too.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

[quote]DANIEL TINDER (5/24/2009)

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I'll retard a bit and see if that helps. Would be unusual, as periodic timing adjustment has always involved advancing to compensate for rubbing-block wear.



Dave & Ted nailed it. The initial advance HAD creeped up (color me embarrassed). I forgot I've been burning premium exclusively of late, so no pinging alert. I had also overlooked a subtle increase in idle speed. Just rotating the distributor a tiny bit (until the idle dropped back) cured the hot slow-cranking.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thanks, Moz.  (I wasn't familiar with that term with regards to points.)

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

rubbing block wear is the rubbing block on the ignition points as it wears the points close up.

moz. geelong victoria australia.

graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover

Slow cranking has been a problem on 6 volt Fords for many years now.  I believe it is the battery.  The newer 6 volt batteries of the original size just don't have the cranking power the old ones did.  My 6 volt '53 truck with a 324" Y used to crank like it had a 12 volt, but it was an industrial size 6 volt.  I doubt if it would fit the battery box in a '55 car.  The truck is now 12 volt so I can use a modern radio and CB.  If you have a battery store (not a WalMart or KMart or such) in your area, check with them to see if they have a more powerful battery, such as a golf cart battery or a farm tractor battery (some tractors used 2 six volts in series) or an 18 wheeler battery (some used 4 6s in series) that will fit your carrier.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Think of it this way, if your starter cranks the engine faster (and it does on a 12-Volt system), you have more kinetic energy pushing the piston over the top even though it's combusting BTDC.  It's all about crank speed, which will start your engine faster so you don't need the key on as long.

If retiming is a trade-off for economy and more hp, maybe you can use an ignition system that has a wider spread (more retarded just for starting purposes).

BTW, what's "rubbing-block wear?"

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I'll retard a bit and see if that helps. Would be unusual, as periodic timing adjustment has always involved advancing to compensate for rubbing-block wear.



So, 12V cars can run more advance than 6V (everything being equal)? When I set timing by ear, hard starting and pinging usually go hand-in-hand. Perhaps a more thorough warmup is required for successful adjustment. Regardless, slow cranking still likely a viable trade-off for increased economy/performance since it always starts.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Slow hot cranking and having to reduce the ignition advance are the reason so many have changed over to 12Volts negative ground. It just works better. Pete

Because the cold starts are normal and you’re only experiencing this during hot starting situations, I’d consider other causes other than hydraulic locking.  Dave had already suggested too much initial igntion spark and your symptoms do point to ‘ignition lock’ where the initial timing is just too far advanced.  Although this would be unusual on a stock compressioned Y, it can not be ruled out.  In these cases, giving the engine 2-3 pumps of the throttle and waiting ten seconds just before cranking on the hot engine typically helps get past that initial ‘slow crank’.  If this helps, then just revisit the intial timing on the engine.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Charlie,



No obvious indication of coolant in the oil, but I have to assume that since it's leaving residue on the plugs, it must be getting past the rings and into the crankcase. Not really a concern since antifreeze is propylene, and motor change imminent. Other head gasket leaking also, but only to the outside. Original engine still running very strong also.

Slow cranking IS a bit jerky. Could be the first few revolutions sends most fluid out the exhaust valve (improving the mixture), and after cranking speeds up, it catches.



Didn't mean for this thread to get so involved. It was originally just a bit of "mental masturbation" about a non-problem.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA