Tim.  Thanks for the heads up about the email.  Have been struggling with recent ISP problems and have noticed that the incoming email count has also been down so I’m apparently not getting everything that’s being sent my way.  And I can’t say for sure if everything I send out is indeed going out either as I don’t get any error messages on my end.  But relieved to hear you received the pics I sent you.

The customer supplied the pushrods but they initially came from J.M.  Didn’t see any thing that looked like part numbers on them though.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Charlie,

thanks for posting the part #s I have just completed three engines and one I installed push rods that looked something like yours, I still have the engine in my garage so I checked and they have a different cup on them and don't seem to even contact the upper edge. I get my HP pushrods through Clevite the ones that are similar to yours are part # 215-4041 and the heavier ones are 215-4150. I know a lot of parts companies don't make there own parts and farm them out so the quality is not always consistent but I have had good luck so far with Clevite.

The push rod on the top is the 215-4150 it is 3/8" in dia. and probably a little over kill but they do hold up. If Bing reads this these are what is in your engine. The bottom picture shows the wear pattern, a little hard to see but it covers the whole area of the cup.

Hope this is a help.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Charlie, thanks for clearing that up for me... I think. Sometimes you have to look at it like this





Johnson Rod



Southern California

  Looks like you nailed it.

Hindsight is 20/20, but I wonder why so many different pushrod cup sizes sold for the Y?  Does it mean every aftermarket setup needs to be clearance-checked?  Then, do they need to be ground or lapped to make the ball seat at the bottom to match OEM?

I'm learning new stuff every day on this site.  Thanks.

(As a side note, heavier valve train parts cause valves to float.  That's why lighter-hollow pushrods, etc.  Ex: Overhead cams elliminated pushrods, lifters, and a ton of kinetic energy. 
That allowed lighter springs to aid in the abreviated kinetic energy.)

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Ted,

      Was the diameter of the Dove balls correct, and round? Obviously not the problem but a contributor?

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

The first doves I used didn't oil my pushrod cups and I'm not sure why. They messed up some of the pushrods of which I bought from Gord I believe out of Canada. I ordered somemore rockers from dove and they worked fine. Just make sure the rockers are oiling and the ball and cup are sized right. One size does'nt fit all, they should be matched to each other either 5/16 or 3/8s.

-Gary Burnette-

I have no idea what is causing the problems, but has anyone mic'd the ball end of the Dove rockers & compared it with a stock adjuster ball? And Gary, will you clarify the details please, with respect to the pushrods out of Canada. Thanks.

(from near Vancouver B.C.)

Paul

Paul, The dove rockers were made in the US but I bought them from Gord I believe his last name was Mcmillan??? and I believe he's out of Canada. But the dove rockers were not oiling the cup part of the pushrods which over heated. Still don't know what was wrong with the rockers, this was back in the mid 90s. The comment has nothing to do with Canada, just Gord who I bought the rockers from. Dont know if they had been modified or not but I do know they galled  my pushrods and some cracked if I remember correctly.

-Gary Burnette-

I do know mine are oiling properly. I made sure of that after my first problem where a cup wore prematurely.



Lawrenceville, GA

Gary, i also had early dove rockers and burnt a few p/rods too. no oil running into cups, you,ll remember Ted then started grinding diagonal oil groove in rocker shafts to increase oil presence there, i also started breaking p/rod cups at intervals and it may be different adjuster ball/ cup match? i since have gone back to normal rockers till i sought it out. best regards . aussie bill. Love your sunliner!!

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia