I purchased a y block that was bored out .60 over, decked and the crank is .10 over. I got everything with the deal minus the oil pan,heads, vallet cover and some other odds and ends. I started claning it today for assembly and I found a few issues that will be a big issue. Please tell me its not too bad. Here are the pics.

See the little ridges in cylinder three? You can feel them with your finger nail. Would it work to hone it?

Also where the rear main seal is a part of the casting has been broken off.

 

 

I seriously dont know what to do, Im pretty bummed out.

Fomoco Low Life

The pictures are kind of fuzzy, but my guess what you are seeing is cross hatching. I usually cross hatch at 45 degrees with a very slow drill. Cross hatching is done after honing to leave scratches on the cylinder walls to get the rings to seat. If your cylinder walls were perfectly smooth, your rings would never seat.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

A good welder and a lot of patience can probably fix that broken piece. I've had blocks fixed between cyls that had blown a head gasket. Worked out fine.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

that cyl will probley be ok but if it feels to rough do not hone it. rent borrow a ball type glaze breaker and run it over all your cyl it dosent cut your cyl down unless you go crazy . as for your block the seal is on the inside you could use jb welde install old seal jb it and file it down no pressure there have done this maney times on old engines no problems good luck

I 2nd the JB weld for the block chip, I have repaired blocks with it in the past, as long as the bonding area is clean it holds up.

Mike

 I'm on a Lowwwww Budget

If you are talking about the cross hatch in the cylinder that is the way it should be. Also if that chip is no bigger than what it looks like from here I don't think it will be an issue, you might make it worse trying to fix it.  Just roll the seal so it is partly in the bottom seal retainer (so the parting line on the block is not the same as the seal) and leave it alone.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

And if it is only #3 that has a cross hatch, make sure the rest do before you assemble the engine.


Lawrenceville, GA

The pictures are much clearer now. The cross hatching looks good and I would assume the machine shop did the other 7 holes like this one. As far as the nick out of the block, I would be very hesitant to try to repair it. If it were mine, I would assemble it like it is. If the rear main doesn't leak, just try not to think about it. I have seen repair attempts go really sour. I think you will still get enough crush on the seal.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas