Dan,

          I think that was already done to your spacer. If not then you can return it and I will or you can check the clearance yourself and let me know what's who.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Today the wife and friends carravaned on a poker run.  The engine ran great, but the idle problem came up.  Ambient temps were up, and when the water temp hit 180 for extended periods in town (meaning 195), the engine started crapping out.  At one point in Ashland I was real worried, as it stalled at a stop light.  Luckily got it fired back up.

Not long later came to one of the pickup points and there was a long line, the temp rose, and stall.  Couldnt start so rolled back down the hill and went in to get the cards, checked the coil and it was hot.  Immediately started on return.

I am sure it is the coil.  It is an Accel with 1.4 ohms internal resist., no ballast required.  I feel like a dumby, because this is the third of these crap coils that have been problems.  Plan to replace with a OEM unit and resistor this week.

Before the run I rechecked the valve adj. and they were all fine. 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I have a flamethrower coil with no ballast resister and it also gets extremely hot. Everything with the engine is super until it gets hot then I usually put it in nuetral while at a stop light to keep it from stalling. Fires right back up but it is very temperature sensitive. Is it normal for the coil to be so hot? Usually run at 180+ on the highway and highway driving is great, but it's the idle area that gets touchy when its hot. Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

46 Y block:

Sounds more like vapor lock than electrical to me.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

John,  There is an elect. fuel pump with gas line running under the back part of the intake, and coming up through the center area where the hold downs are, then to the front of the Autolite.  The line is wrapped with adhesive backed fiberglass insulation from down in the hold down area to within an inch or so of the carb. 

55Vickey, The first flamethrower of this number I ended up using on my 54 Ford tractor when it was first converted to 12V.  It was always hot when in use, and gave out in 1-2 years.  The second overheated and puked its oil when I left the ignition on overnight, but it was hot while in use during its short life.  My thinking was that with the Accel pointless ignition matched to one of their coils they specified in the instructions, it should be a great match this time around.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

46:

That fuel line is located in probably the hottest part of the top of the engine.  I recommend temporarily running a line on the topside of the intake and see if that makes a difference.  Even with fiberglass insulation, the heat would be trememdous under the center of the manifold.  It burns the paint off the manifolds.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks John, I'll try it. 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

46,

I searched through this thread & didn't find what you have for a carb spacer, & what carb you are using.  I saw something about autolite, & remember from before you had planned on using a 2barrel, but think it may be relevent to find out what the application of that carb is, & what you have for a spacer/insulator. 

The carb is an autolite 2100 which originally would have been used on a Mustang SBF, 1966 if I remember right.  There is a half inch phenolic spacer between it and the intake.  This probably doesnt have any bearing, but I rotated the automatic choke spring so that the choke never is activated, always open.  Carb was newly rebuilt before installation.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Might be fruitless, but if your coil solution doesn't work, I'd also try swapping out the carb for something different.  A good baseline would be an autolite that is specific to an original y block application.  Or try one of the 2300 holley's that came on trucks from late 50's through 64. 

I recently swapped out an old 2100 that was of 68 small block ford application that was on two different y's I've messed with over the years with a 58 holley 2300 & was surprised how much the idle through 2500 response & light to part throttle driving changed. 

The only down fall of the autolite 2100's is the fact that the idle, low & high speed air bleeds are built in to the boosters & also the carb castings.  The worst thing is there is very little information availible to properly understand what boosters with which carb produce accurate meetering with which engine, & then if you factor in the changes that occur with a 100 degree fuel bowl, & what each air bleed does or doesn't do when the carb is 100 degrees it stands to reason as to why most end up with new carbs, & or application specific remanufatured carbs.