Harry.  That Comet has been gone for quite awhile now.  Have pictures and fond memories of it but someone in Utah has the car now.  But you haven’t seen the 427 Fairlane (the ’66 model) either and I’ve had that one since High School but this one essentially hasn’t been raced since 1983.  Would love to make some passes at the new track in Crandal but have been up to my eyeballs in work and grandkids right now.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks to all, My Daughter who is to return from Iraq somewhere around Sept,She is the one who is hiped about the 57, and campaining on the dragstrip.. I get a little nostalgic when I go to my Soninlaw's, and its sitting in the back yard...

We will be trying all the tricks I've learned over these many years..

Again We thank y'all... It is very good info... Ted how come we haven't seen the 67 Comet.. ?? Been looking for ya at Cedar Creek and the new strip at Crandal..

Brother and I own/operate 1957 Ford Fairlane 312/4x2 and two 1963 Falcons 302 rollers carburated 600cfm, FE427 sitting in shed..

Harry. Good to hear that you’re getting that beast ready to rock and roll. Putting a toggle switch into the wire going to the field circuit of an externally regulated system will accomplish what you want to do. What Dave suggests with the later model Ford internally regulated systems is the alternative. My ’67 Comet with a 427 Tunnel Port had a limit switch hooked up to the accelerator that would allow a disconnect of the field circuit whenever the trottle went to the wide open position as being wired this way, I never had to remember to turn it back on.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Racing means, you need all your ponies driving the rear wheels.  There's plenty of time for charging your battery later.

Refer to prior post:

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/FindPost26651.aspx

I assume you have a Ford alternator (not a GM 1-wire).  The diagram is typical of most Ford alternators, but came from a '90 Mustang.  See the "sense" wire that goes to the Battery Indicator (GEN light) LG/R #904?  If you cut that wire and install a switch, the alternator will sense that your key is off, and it will not produce power.  More importantly, it won't draw horsepower from the belt.

You don't need any fancy kits, but I would put a big red flashing LED next to the switch anytime it is off (it should bother you).

Hope this helps, and I hope it gives you and your daughter the edge to win races.  Modern cars use a Wide-Open-Throttle Sensor that shuts off A/C, etc., and delivers all your hp to the wheels, to get you off the railroad tracks.

  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

It can be done, and there are kits available. How or what you do dependsa on which alternator you have. Most of us don't bother, better to keep the battery charged and the voltage consistent for electronic ignitions,

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

My daughter and I are going to get the 57 ready for drag racing and we installed an altenator, and would like to leave the belt drive on while we race/make a pass, and I heard that it can be turned off and on with a switch.. has anyone done this or heard of it being done..

Brother and I own/operate 1957 Ford Fairlane 312/4x2 and two 1963 Falcons 302 rollers carburated 600cfm, FE427 sitting in shed..