New and unrun engines are tough to store for extended periods of time.  As has been suggested, unbolt the rocker arms so there is no tension on the valve springs and insure the cylinders are sufficiently oiled down.  Be sure the spark plugs are in place and tightened.  Remove the carburetor and put a plate over the intake opening to seal the top side of the engine from air.  Oil the tops of the valves in the exhaust ports and bolt flat plates over the ports is also recommended along with storing the engine in a moisture free area that’s temperature controlled.

 

For engines that are in a position to crank and run, Napa makes an aerosol called ‘The Fogger’ that you simply spray into the carburetor while it’s running and lubes up the insides while spraying enough fogger into the engine in which to stall it.  If it’s just a core engine awaiting a rebuild and it’s going to be awhile, another option is to just fill up the crankcase and carburetor with used oil but if the engine has leaky rear or front seals, be prepared for some seepage.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

This past winter I had a new engine on the stand, wrapped and with tent like plastic cover, heat lamp shining up from underneath 24/7.  Engine was in a large unheated barn.  It gets cold and wet here in the NW.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I would say take the pushrods out.  That way each valve spring is as relaxed as it can get without disassembly.  Then as long as the engine is stored in an area where temp change is minimal and you can be assured that you have sufficient oil misted or coated on all un painted surfaces, you can be sure that rust will not happen.  Rust will only occur when water condenses on bare iron.  Even some condensation will not cause rusting if there is enough oil.

When you go to start it up assuming you are refering to the 351 without the manifold, pull the lifters and recoat them with break in lube.  As you have turned it already some of the cam prelube is already wiped off.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

I have a custom 351 Windsor balanced and polished, ready to install in my 56 F-100. Then along came an opportunity to get a 2nd 56 with a Y-Block....which put off the first project while I try and get the Y-Block on the road. I have read a lot about long term storage on engines. I keep this engine on an engine stand covered with a blanket. I faithfully rotate the crank two and a quarter turns every two weeks. About once every two months I squirt some lube in the cylinder walls before I crank it.  If I understand correctly, two and a quarter revolutions on the crank makes sure the valve springs are rotated to prevent the same valve springs from always being under tension. I'm just looking for advise or experience to keep this engine alive and well until I get er in.

Darrell Howard 56 Ford F-100

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's