I agree, keep it public.


Lawrenceville, GA

Yes please keep this conversation on the public forums. I'm interested too.

_____



Billerica, MA

     Charlie,

             You might move it to this and that, but definitely keep it public. A lot of us didn't realize the amount of work and thought this required. Another question, have you considered an article on "my Yellow Truck" for Legendary Ford. I'll bet Colin would be interested.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Charlie whats a good engine for if the truck isn't sitting in the weeds? 

57F100 there are many ways to drop your truck and most people will have different opinions but as long as you are happy with the final product that is all that matters.  I choose the following methods.  Front: reverse eye main leaf, 3" inch drop axle and removed 2 leaves.  Rear: reverse eye main leaf, 2" drop shackle and flipped the front hanger.  Final drop was about 6" all around.  I am happy with the stance but can say it is a pain in the ass to do any work under the truck as it is to low to slid under.  Different strokes for different fokes.

Bing

Before  Drop

After Drop

Warsaw, IN

Well, at this point you better PM me with questions.  I'm sure the Y-Block guys are looking forward to reading more about engines.

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)



BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH so much stuff lol i know it aint gunna be easy but imma try my best imma take the front leafsprings out make a bracket put the springs underneath bolt everything back on and hope it works am i missing anything?

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD

If your springs are re-bushed and re-tempered and back to original you shouldn't have too much problem.  If your springs are old and tired like me, you will probably have to at least shorten the rubber bumpers to get a little more travel before you bottom out.  I believe you can get a good idea of the new axle travel by measuring the travel available now and what it would be by subtracting the thickness of the axle and any bracket material you would need to use.  The decision to c-notch would come by comparing the axle travel (and ride) you have now and what you would have after the axle is moved on top of the springs and blending that thought with deciding what kind of roads you plan to travel over.

You would still have to deal with the drag link as mentioned above and if the caster isn't addressed, you will have nitemares with the resulting bump-steer.  When lowering a truck in the front, you have to imagine the king pins tilting forward developing negative caster.  The stock specs for caster is 0 to +3 degrees.  After I put the axle on top of the springs, the king pins were -7 degrees.  You wouldn't do what I did, but I rotated the axle back to +8 degrees to run more true at speed. 

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)



BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

thats more then true if i put that set-up u have on your truck on my truck would i have to c-notch my frame or would i be able to put that set up on with out having to mess with a whole bunch of other stuff

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD

That axle on top will lower the truck way more than 2 to 3 inches.  I have to say that there is satisfaction associated with solving a problem with perspiration and perseverance instead of picking up a catalog or going online to order your problems away.

Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)



BurnsRacing981@gmail.com

that same setup you have is what im looking for im not looking to bottom out the front of the truck but to drop it at least 2 or 3 inches would be more then fine for me that set up you have looks perfect

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD