I've seen the die-cast centrifugal weights in the 57-58 distributors disintegrate. You can pull the cap and see if the rotor turns slightly CCW and springs back. Pull the rotor and the felt plug and put a few drops of oil where the plug was. Then oil the felt plug and replace it. Might help if the advance is sticking.

While you're oiling things, fill the oil cap near the vacuum canister.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

If you run the engine up and try to find the maximum centrifugal advance, what does it turn out to be? And at how many rev's?

Do you have a special curve in the distributor - or is it simply advanced out on the low end to get it at the right spot when you are at cruising rpm?

Otherwise I'm thinking like John - vacuum can doesn't fully retract its operating rod at engine stop.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I have a 57 dizzy and pertronix with flamethrower coil. Plugs are around .040and looking great.

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

What distributor?  The original Load-O-Matic or a newer ’57 and up model?  Like Charlie suggests, too much initial ignition timing comes to the forefront but the causes can be varied depending upon which distributor you have.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Gary:

Maybe your vacuum advance is not returning to "0" when you shut it down.  This could be due to sticking mechanism or a return spring problem.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

The timing is probably too advanced. If it's running well otherwise, you might see about getting one of those afermarket boxes that will alllow you to dial back the timing while starting.


Lawrenceville, GA

Not sure if the term is right, but my 272 seems to kick back when I try to start my engine when its hot. The last one blew my starter drive apart. Whats causing it, pretty sure it's a timing issue but it runs so sweet right now that I hate to mess with it? Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin