And..........she is alive.  I got the new ignitor, installed it and was wicked excited to start her up.  I make sure I have the timing set, all the wires connected and double checked it all.  Go and turn the key and nothing, the battery is died.  I connect the charger and go do some house work and come back to a full battery a few hours later and turn the key and it sounds like she wants to start up but just wont, so give her a little gas and she starts, yes.  but once I take my foot off the pedal she dies, so I go and adjust the dizzy timing and start her up again and sure enough she runs and pretty strong.  So I go through and tune all of the timing and idle using the vacuum and tach.  What I do know, after all this, is I have to work on the carb because the float is definatly off because I can hear it sucking gas when I rev it fast.  I guess this will be my next project but I think I have to drive her for a day or two before I do that.  I know that I have to go get lumber for a house project or my wife might try to sell the truck next time I go to work.
Thanks to all for all of the help.
Cbass

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

Ok, just got off the phone with pertronix tech help and they think "it just might be a bad ignitor", you think.  So I am going to just exchange it through the company I bought it with.  Will keep you all posted.  Thanks for all the help so far.

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

Don't turn on the ignition and leave it on without the engine running for more than a minute or two.Leaving it on for an extended length of time will fry the ignitor.I won't tell you how I know that.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO

yep, that is what I did and all problems seemed to point to the ignitor but now it sounds like it wants to start but wont.  Almost sounds like it is bogged down but it isnt.  I am going to take a break from it now and go to a show (see some nice old ones that actually run for insperation).  when I get back I will start back in, I think now I want to know that it is getting spark at the plugs.

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

At this point I would put the points back in and see if it will start. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Ran the jumper cable and it was getting power (turned the dash lights on without the key turned on).  But still would not start, took the jumper cable off and tested each post connecting the + of the multimeter to it and the - of the multi to the - battery post and was getting a solid 11-12 so both sides are getting power.  So were to next?  This would be fun if I didnt really want it to work.  I tested the spark wire from the coil to the dizzy and it is fine so how do I know if the coil is getting a signal to send a spark to the dizzy and then if it gets the signal if it actually is sending it?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

You can use a 12v light bulb and two wires for a field expedient test light. You can also run a wire direct from the battery to the coil to see if it will fire. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Ok, now I dont think I am getting power to the coil.  Cant find my test light but set the multimeter to voltage and tried that and got nothing at all. I thought that I would be able to see something with this. If this is the case, that the multi is showing no voltage at the posts which direction do I go? or do I need to use a test light?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

If the coil is dead it would definitely cause problems. Ask anyone who helped me chase an eventual bad coil at Columbus last year(thanks again for the help, guys). Coils aren't that expensive and it never hurts to carry a spare. Get one and try then you will know. Also think about putting the points back in (after the coil swap if it dosen't run). If it starts then its the Ignitor setup. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

how do I check to see if I am getting voltage at the + side.  Is it as easy as turning the ignition to the on position and attaching a multimeter?

John- is there a way of telling if the ignitor is working or not?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford