So I got the starter and installed it, I had already installed the ignitor and flamethrower all this on the 58' f100 with a 292.  I wrote about all the problems I was having, well here is were I am.  With all that done and the timing restored to where it was before everything went terribly wrong it starts up again.  The only problem is it is poping and will not idle unless I give it a good amount of gas and have the choke on.  The second I go to see what is going on under the hood it dies.  Where do I go from here.  I know that I need to rebuild the carb but it was drive able just two weeks ago, so that is not the real problem.  I would love to have it run long enough to dial in the timing and then I can take the carb off and rebuild it.  Any suggestions?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

try tunning the carb so that it idles high it should stay on once its on u can just lower the adjustment that use to happen to me before

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD

check to make sure sparkplug wires are in the correct firing order, then remove #1pug and bring eng. up to compression stroke on#1 and check timing for tdc then #1 wire connected to spark plug and grd.plug to blk. and ignition on rotate dist. till #1 pug fires this should be tdc then you can fine tune it running  hope this helps you shakey Pete a newbie Canuck

tried to tune it to idle a little higher and when I tried starting it, it wont again.  I will have to take a look at the spark again, but not until Sat., have to work for 48 hrs but have a free weekend.

Thanks for the help, we will see what happens

Cbass

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

make sure you have the firing order right

FORD IS LIFE OIL N GAS IS MY BLOOD

The firing order is right but not sure if it is too advanced, would this cause this problem?  If not any other ideas?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

You can check the timing without the engine running. Crank it over with the starter and see where it's at.



Or have a friend man the distributor while you keep it running and see if the situation improves.


Lawrenceville, GA

Still kind of wondering if I had it too advanced would it give me this same problem?  I moved the tooth and think I may have gone two.  Would the problems I have show up if this was the case?

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

Sometimes its better to just back away from the problem and restart from zero. Don't assume on anything you've previously tried. I would find TDC on number one, check compression stroke with plug out and dampner to zero or TDC. I use a finger in the hole but a compression tester works too. Pull this distributor and check it out for cracks and/or carbon tracks. Determine best location of the vacumm advance to allow max adjustment. Don't forget to check the advance while the distributor is out of the car. Suck on the advance tube and see what happens with the advance. Might be a good time to remove and add some grease on the advance plate. Reinstall the distributor with the rotor at number one. Reinstall the plug wires one at a time following the exact firing order of the engine. Make sure you have the rotation direction of the distributor correct. They sometimes get wired correctly but in reverse. Set the distributor against the rotation for a little advance and tighten the hold down to snug. Try it! If you are 100% sure all is now correct (I've miss wired more than one Y-Block) and you still have the same problem its probably not in the distributor/wiring. If thats true I would run a compression test to see if you have a burnt valve problem. Hope this helps, Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I don't know that this will happen if it is too advanced. But, if you don't know where the timing is, then timing could be a factor. Are the marks on your damper accurate? You can position the crank to the point at which you want the points to open and use an ohm meter to turn the distributor until the points are just opening. That will get you very close.


Lawrenceville, GA