|
Author
|
Message
|
|
Doug T
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 563,
Visits: 2.6K
|
Great looking work and gilding a Y block lily is fine by me! 
Doug TThe Highlands, Louisville, Ky. 
|
|
|
|
|
charliemccraney
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 6.1K,
Visits: 442.6K
|
The patterns are paper. It's hard to tell but the slot is in an arc which is centered on the upper bolt. With the bracket fastened to the engine, the alternator will swing the full length of the arc. I finished the installation today and it works perfectly. I like it much more than the stock setup. 
Lawrenceville, GA
|
|
|
|
|
Doug T
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Month
Posts: 563,
Visits: 2.6K
|
Are those paper patterns or metal? they sure look good. But Charlie I think you have made the problem more difficult than Ford did. Their brackets are straight slots and only one bolt to the timing case cover or engine mount not two. Then bracket can rotate under the bolt a little as the generator or alternator is moved to tighten the belt.
Doug TThe Highlands, Louisville, Ky.
|
|
|
|
|
GREENBIRD56
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 102.7K
|
Very nice Charlie - you're hired.........!!!
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
|
|
|
|
|
charliemccraney
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 6.1K,
Visits: 442.6K
|
And here it is!  It took 11 revisions before I was comfortable with transferring the pattern to steel. The first three were for an alternator which I did not end up using due to clearance issues. I call it "The Evolution of an Alternator Bracket". 
Lawrenceville, GA
|
|
|
|
|
John Mummert
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 912,
Visits: 7.5K
|
Believe it or not, there is a tool made to tighten alternators. Its cut from 1/4 plate, has a hook at one end to grab any part of the case it will grab, loops part of the way around the case and has 1/2" square opening for ratchet. I think I have one, just don't know where it is.
http://ford-y-block.com 20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico 
|
|
|
|
|
DANIEL TINDER
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 154.0K
|
Good luck finding a turnbuckle tool short enough. Minimum length of one I got from NAPA (5") too long to fit between pulleys.
6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
|
|
|
|
|
mctim64
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 2.4K,
Visits: 5.0K
|
I have always used a pry bar with a nice flat edge. I just watch where I pry against and don't try to pull it off the engine. A little pressure will do. 
 God Bless.  Tim http://yblockguy.com/
350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor
tim@yblockguy.com Visalia, California Just west of the Sequoias
|
|
|
|
|
BFOOTER03
|
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 Years Ago
Posts: 323,
Visits: 1.2K
|
My belt squeak when I pryed and tighened it by hand my self. When I got a neighbor to tightned the bolts down the squeak was gone and is still gone. Only tool used to pry was 170lbs of pure man made strength. Ok maybe there was a little grunting also. Bing
Warsaw, IN
|
|
|
|
|
Hoosier Hurricane
|
|
|
Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 3.7K,
Visits: 322.9K
|
Paul is correct, alternator cases are fragile. Apply the pressure where the stator ring is, the ring is steel and can take the pressure from the pry bar.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
|
|
|
|