Update: Reset float to just above Holly specs. (it WAS way high. Amazing, the difference between Viton & OEM steel float needle/seat). Popping at high RPM shift gone, maybe heat-soak flooding also (too early to be sure), BUT, now have off-idle hesitation again (minor though) that had totally disappeared after accell. pump cup replacement. Hmmm....! Will play with idle screws some more.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Holly 4000 manual IS amazingly detailed & thorough. I've studied it in depth at least a dozen times, and am convinced anyone achieving firm comprehension will certainly ward off senility.



I was referring to absence of literature re: modification from Holly factory specs. to improve performance over stock setup.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

This is a very indepth manual on the 4000.  I dont know how much info you are looking for but cant imagine this is missing anything.  I have no experience with this particular holley, sorry.

Disassembly starts on page 13, cleaning and inspection on page 21, rebuilding on page 22, tuning on page 25, trouble shooting on page 28.  Hope this helps.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Holley/H4000/C228/index.htm

1958 F100 292

"Nothing is particularly hard if you divide it into small jobs."

"Chop your own wood, and it will warm you twice."

-Henry Ford

Higher float setting (?) may be responsible for accentuated heat-soak percolation I have experienced since reinstallation. I have also noticed a "popping" (similar to deceleration noises when timing is retarded) when up-shifting at high RPMs.



Where is feedback from all the Teapot gurus? Detailed info on advanced Holly 4000 tuning is sadly lacking. Available literature glosses over basic rebuilding only. No wonder Pony can demand top dollar!



Still curious why OEM steel/brass float needle replaced with Viton? Assuming best quality/long lasting/alcohol resistant Viton used, why better than steel/brass? Holly manual stresses each needle/seat combo a matched set. Did I error in tapping-in the NOS needle/seat with a brass mallet?



Will eventually re-set float level to exact manual specs, and then check plugs down the road. Wish I knew why the Pony pulls so much harder than my local-rebuild/spare.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Update: Another recent post suggested 6' of gravity too much continuous pressure. Sure enough, after the 3rd day gaskets were thoroughly saturated and started leaking again. After installation and running leaks stopped though.



Strong pulling/expensive Pony teapot taken out of service after 25K mi. when it started acting up. Minor disassembly and cleaning with spray carb cleaner, and stored in tight plastic bag for one year. After Saturday reinstallation it demonstrated off-idle hesitation. Checked accelerator pump and found blue Viton cup in pieces. Fished out fragments and replaced, car now running like gangbusters.



When initially purchased, it stumbled around 2500 RPMs with moderate/prolonged acceleration in 1st gear. Sent back to Pony for adjustment, stumble almost gone. Pony tech (never forthcoming with proprietary data) hinted it was set too lean. I assumed they re-jetted it, but past forum discussion suggests change of float level a possibility (colder range plugs still blistered though). When I put the Pony back in service, I installed an original type metal float needle, which may have altered the float level? Whatever, all hint of stumble now totally gone.




6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Gaskets shrink when they dry out. Cork are worse than paper, but paper shrinks. Soaking them in water does the same thing.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Just out curiosity, I reinstalled my dried-out teapot and spun the engine awhile with the plugs removed. Sure enough, gas started pouring out between the body sections and running into the secondaries.

I then pulled it, connected an old fuel line, and rigged it to a long hose attached to a gallon jug of gas hanging 6 ft. overhead, with a catch pan under the carb. Checked it after a couple days, and no more leak. Not sure of fuel pump pressure vs. gravity, but if everything OK when I install it again, I'm guessing a small bottle of stabilized gas connected to the fuel inlet (float propped up/metal needle valve) might be the way to store a spare when it's taken out of service (assuming proper fire/ventilation precautions), or at least the way to prep it for installation?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA