Ted Eaton's web site has the two articles that were in the magazine.

  Vic Correnti

Much of the difference in pushrod length is due to the actual location of the valves in the head.

If you set an ECZ-G head next to a later small valve head, such as a C1TE, you will see that the valves, springs and rocker stands are raised approx. .100" in the C1TE. All of the small valve 60's heads require the longer pushrods for this reason.

I've never checked any 1954-55 heads next to 56 heads but the valves may be higher in the earlier heads.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

OK I have a couple more questions.I got my replacement pushrods which are USA made.They are 8 1/4 long.Much more heavy duty and a better cup design.My guess is the ones in now are original and were wrong from the time the car was new.I have installed one side because I am waiting for a couple of good used arms that one of the y-block forum regulars is sending me.Thanks Earl!2 of mine have no oil groove from running dry for years.When I installed the repacement pushrods I have 2 that are not turning when the motor is running as the others are.They are properly adjusted.Any idea why this is happening and is it a concern?These longer pushrods are to be used  with the oil return deflectors.If you used these with a motor not equipped with the trays you would end up with  slightly higher lift at the valve.Seems like a cheap way to get slightly more power without changing cams.Would there be a problem using them that way?What do you think Ted?By the way I do notice a difference  in power already only having done one side with the correct pushrods.

  

What Nick says X2.  Longer pushrods will increase the lift at the valve.  A rough estimate for a 0.125” longer pushrod agrees with Nick’s assesment in that it would be 0.017”-0.020” more lift at the valve on a camshaft that’s rated for 0.450” lift and using 1.54:1 rockers.  In my world, that’s a bunch.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

After I installed high-ratio rockers, I did notice a certain valve train "balkiness" that soon disappeared. Must have taken some time for the built-up carbon to break away.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Hi Mark,  Yes, if your pushrods are too short you will have less lift at the valve.  Once again I must refer you to Ted's excellent articles on the subject in Y-Block Magazine.  Probably something like .015" - .020" but enough to make a difference.  Another advantage of having correct rocker arm/ pushrod geometry is that you will reduce the wear on your valve guides, which also means less oil consumption due to less oil being sucked past the intake valves.  But just because I needed longer pushrods doesn't mean that all Y-blocks do, especially if the heads have been milled.  Good luck, Nick Brann - K.C., MO

Now I have another question.Because this motor has been running with shorter pushrods than what was specified I am thinking it would not have gotten full lift at the valve.I realize its only 1/8 of an inch longer rod. By installing the correct pushrods there should be a slight increase in the amount the valve opens?Am I correct in this assumption?When I put the one side back together without the trays and using the shorter rods meant for use without the deflectors,the motor seemed to run stronger and smoother at idle.Can't wait to see what happens with the correct length rods on both sides and reinstalling the deflectors.

  

Mark & all; Thank you for this thread- I decided to go w/ the drip trays in this motor, but was unaware they required the use of '55 only pushrods. I just got off the horn w/ Egge, and my new set of longer pushrods is on it's way- sure would of been a lot of fun trying to set the lash for my first ever attempt w/ short pushrods.... -Thanks again- /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

Thanks for your input guys!I have ordered a set of the 8 1/4 longer rods from my local parts store.He does list the 2 different lengths.My motor is stock with the exception of the later manifold,distributor and 390 Holley.By the way this combination is a vast improvement over the stock Teapot setup for anyone who is still fighting with the loadomatic and stock carb and would like a reliable fun to drive setup.It looks like someone put the shorter rods in sometime in the distant past OR it was an error originally because the car is a 56 built in Nov 55 using up 55 parts.Maybe they ran out of the longer rods and put the deflectors and short rods in.

  

Issues # 70 & 71. Terrific articles/invaluable data.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA