Fellas- I just wanted to say thanks for the suggestions. I ended up buying the 9/16"x 18 x 1' threaded rod (thanks for the link, Charlie) and a 1 3/4" x 6" pipe nipple. I scrounged 2 balancer bolt washers and a 9/16"x 18 nut (surprised myself, there). $15.05 total out of pocket. The install went smooth as butter... -Thanks Again- /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

Look around, I found a nice Ohio Forge damper install kit with all the adapters, ball bearing spacer ect. at a pawn shop for 20 bucks.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

I’ve moved this topic to the Technical section.  I’ll add that hammering on the damper puts undue stress on the thrust bearing and in extreme cases, causes the thrust bearing to crack or break.  Haven’t seen a main web in a block break yet as a direct result of hammering on the damper but it’s a possibility.  Here’s the link to a past thread also discussing damper installing tools.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic21576-3-2.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hammer method likely only viable when replacing used damper on same crank it came off of. If it came off easy, it might go back far enough to start the bolt safely with very minor force (do you feel lucky?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I did the same as Vic - got a longer bolt at the hardware store and used a stack of washers.  

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I have a Tbird and I use a 2 inch long 9/16 fine thread bolt that I bought at the local hardware store. I use the 2 inch bolt and washer and draw the damper in till the original bolt reaches the threads in the crank a fair amount and then draw it in the rest of the way with the existing bolt. As for hammering on the end of the crank I have had the bad experience of breaking the crankshaft at the first journal using a puller and hitting the end of it. Not a good idea in my experience.

  Vic Correnti

I have also used Doug's method with a block of wood and a small hammer.  I also heated the hub of the damper with a propane torch to helpit slide on.  I only posted my puller fabrication earlier because you seemed to want a puller, and that isn't bad.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Did you check with Mcmaster-Carr? Probably around $14.00 to your door. A good local hardware store should have the rest.



http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3130/=37apxj, part number    

98957A407


Lawrenceville, GA

The T bird balancer has the bolt and washer surface buried deep the a hole  in its center.  What I have personally done is drive it gently with a block of wood and a SMALL hammer until the bolt with the flat washer but without the lock washer engages the threads in the crank.  Then I draw the balancer on the rest of the way with the bolt force. Hit the block right in the center of the balancer but don't try to drive it all the way until it seats.  Replace the lock washer and tighten to the proper torque spec.   I make sure all dirt, rust and corrosion is off the surfaces of the crank and internal surface of the balancer with 400 grit and lubricate with graphite grease.  This subject has come up before and driving it on with a BFH has come in for criticism because it is not a good idea. But as long as it is moving with each blow of the small hammer you know it isn't cocked and it wont take long to engage the centerbolt. If you wanted to be sure of hitting the center use a body working slide hammer on the center of the block.

BTW on of the T bird vendors sells a slick puller to get the t bird balancer off but it wont work on Pass cars.  

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Duck:

I made my installer by welding a 1/2" bolt head-to-head with a 9/16 bolt.  Screwed the 9/16 into the crank, slipped the damper in place, used appropriate washers and a 1/2" nut to pull the damper in place.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"