Can anyone tell me where I can find a heat riser valve for a 58 fairlane with the 292.  I looked at macs it only has one listed for a 332 and 352.   NPD has them listed for a 55-57 tbird.  prt noT-9A427-1.  The one from NPD looks the same just making sure it is.

restoring after 50 years

Met a guy recently with a 55 Bird who had installed a nifty chrome plated variable flow/shutoff valve in his fuel line between filter bowl & carb. Though contrary to what I would expect, he claimed reducing the flow/pressure from mechanical pump cured his vapor lock problem. Shutting it off when parked acts as sort of a theft deterrent, and also keeps float bowl/fuel line from draining through typically leaky pump check valve.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I took my heat riser out and I'm fixin' to slide a piece of metal over the center port. Did that back in the day. Maybe it will help my vapor lockin' .... which has been an ongoing problem ever since I've had my ride. I did put a rubber gas line on it (fuel pump to carb) and I hope that fixes it.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

I put the infra red thermometer on my manifold when warmed up. 220 at the thermostat housing, 205 at the exhaust crossover, 170 at the rear runner. That's with no heat riser valve and restricted gaskets.


Lawrenceville, GA

Just wanted everyone to know, I everyone's comments up to my mechanic, and sure enough the valve was frozen cloed and probably had been for a long time.  Took the butterfly out, reassembled and the temp instantly dropped to where they let it idle outside for a good 15-20 minutes and never got above the 3/4 mark on the gauge.  Drove down the road and back a few times and it dropped even more.  He said still hot in the middle port but I told him that is just a quark of the 312's.

Thank you again.  Off to my next issue

1957 Thunderbird

312

You can check it yourself.With the car cold(so you dont burn your hand)reach down and operate the valve by hand.The thermostic spring closes it and relaxs as it heats up allowing the counterweight to open the valve.You just want to be sure its not seized and you can do that yourself.

  

Thank you for the picture. That will help>



So based on everything I have reading, we have a consensus that the 245 degree temp is not a serious problem. I am not going to hurt the motor, heads etc... correct?



I will have mechanic check the riser valve tomorrow to make sure it is open. If it is and we are still getting the 245 at the center, I am probably OK other than it affecting the thermostat gauge which I have spoke about before.




1957 Thunderbird

312

Inexperienced mechanics often install these valves upside-down. They will fit that way, but won't work as well since gravity acts against the design function, and speeds failure. It also doesn't help that they were mistakenly drawn upside-down when the exploded parts diagrams were originally done.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

The photo tells the story - a stuck valve is a big RH exhaust obstruction. Its under your heater - down by the starter.

I got the "replacement" from NPD - its the basic iron block shown  - with no valve / spring / pivot / etc. Just a spacer with an open hole to fit on the longer studs, fill the gap and refit the original exhaust pipe.

To fit one, you will need a pair of new gaskets, the spacer and two brass 7/16 fine thread nuts. Try soaking the old nuts with penetrant a few days before you wrench on it. Use a long extension and a six point socket. Take care and use some patience. A broken or stripped stud is a pure pain.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Here's a pic of the valve on the end of the exhaust manifold,  the bimetal spring and counterweight open the valve after exhaust heats it enough.The problem occurs when the "flapper" seizes in the closed position,forcing all the exhaust from this manifold back through the intake passage (under the carb.)to the opposite side ex. manifold.....really heats the intake manifold   Barry L